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Old 04-23-2010, 10:26 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My Sammy With Thorley Headers and Weber Carb

Hay guys,

just wanted to share with you latest mods to my Sammy. I installed Thorley headers, Flow Master muffler, 2" exaust pipes, and Weber Carb. I've also completely removed the Cat converter, which seemed to be completely clogged with dirt and caused huge pressure on the exaust.

Performance has leaped with those mods considerably.











And here's a short video:

Enjoy.

Last edited by alternator; 04-23-2010 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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dont ya love how throaty it sounds!
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Old 04-23-2010, 11:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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dont ya love how throaty it sounds!
Oh yeah! But I'm having a little problem with the carb. Seems I have a vacuum leak at the base where the adapters fit. When I spray Carb spray on it, the idle speed changes. I'm not sure how to fix it, I really don't want to go through taking off the carb again and all the adapters and fix the leak. I didn't do a very good job with sealing.
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Old 04-26-2010, 11:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh yeah! But I'm having a little problem with the carb. Seems I have a vacuum leak at the base where the adapters fit. When I spray Carb spray on it, the idle speed changes. I'm not sure how to fix it, I really don't want to go through taking off the carb again and all the adapters and fix the leak. I didn't do a very good job with sealing.
Hay guys, any help with this would be appreciated. Experts, your advice? Billjohn, Baratacus, you're needed
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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a lot of times the bolts on the adapter plate back out and the plate gets loose. Tightening the carb bolts won't help since the plate is secured with allen head bolts under the carb. If your adapter plate is sucking air then pull the carb off and put some thread lock on the allen head bolts and snug them down. some thread lock on the carb bolts isn't a bad idea either. Don't over tighten or you will crack the base of the throttle body.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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a lot of times the bolts on the adapter plate back out and the plate gets loose. Tightening the carb bolts won't help since the plate is secured with allen head bolts under the carb. If your adapter plate is sucking air then pull the carb off and put some thread lock on the allen head bolts and snug them down. some thread lock on the carb bolts isn't a bad idea either. Don't over tighten or you will crack the base of the throttle body.
Thanks Baratacus. What is the ideal sealant to use with the gaskets? Is grease good? Should I apply it liberally or just to cover the surface? I just barely covered the surface when I did it.
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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on my carburetor I never use sealant, i just clean both surfaces and put the gasket on dry. You'd need to use something that isn't going to break down when exposed to gasoline and can expand and contract with the metal as the temperature changes.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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on my carburetor I never use sealant, i just clean both surfaces and put the gasket on dry. You'd need to use something that isn't going to break down when exposed to gasoline and can expand and contract with the metal as the temperature changes.
Dry! That's amazing! How would you prevent the air from leaking? I tested with a carb spray and not surprisingly, the idling speed increased as I did, which proves that there is some leakage. While driving, whenever I depress the clutch the RPM drops very low and some times dies. I adjusted the idle speed screw and it is all the way in, and it is still doing that. My only explanation is that vacuum leakage.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I totally agree that you probably have a vacuum leak at the base of the carb. I still use a gasket on my carb, I just don't use glue to seal it. Theres enough cussion with the gasket to keep the surfaces air tight if your mating surfaces are flat. If theres any debris or if the surface is warped or marred it wouldn't seal so well. If you wan't to use a gasket sealer then probably the same stuff you use for the intake manifold. Black RTV is what I use there. It's flexible solvant and coolant proof as well as temperature resillient.
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Is that on a stock 1.3L or a 1.6L? Was trying to decide myself to do that to a 1.3 or maybe just change to a 1.6L. If it's on a 1.3 did it make a big difference? Just wondering if it would be worth doing to a 1.3 or just swap.
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