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Old 02-24-2010, 07:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default will this alternator work?

I think this is a GM cs130 alternator, from a 1988 Chevy Astro van?? I could be wrong, but it did come out of a 88 astro van.. Can I get some clarification please. If t not a GM cs130, what bracket will work to make this unit fit on mu Zuki?
Thanks my Friends in advance for your replies






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Old 02-25-2010, 06:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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yeah that's the CS130. It will work just fine with the bracket that they sell for the 10 and 12is alternators. You'll need to switch the pulley for a v-belt pulley. Theres a guy that sells kits for them that include the bracket and an adapter plug to the stock connectors for 40 bucks, for 60 he'll throw in a belt too. . Another guy sells just the bracket for 30.
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That is the CS130 but the only problem is the bolt pattern. You'll have to fab a top bracket because the kits use the factory top arm. The alt in your pic has the 10 and 6 o'clock pattern and the kits use the 12 an 6 o'clock pattern. Shouldn't be hard to alter the original by splicing in a section.
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, I found a company that sells the face plates to make it a 12:00 and 6:00 o:clock version.
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin93 View Post
You will post the link or address, won't you? Inquiring minds want to know.
this guy has the face plates
[email protected]

he sells on ebay under seller billh6800
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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so, my next question is, what pigtail to I get and how do I wire it. This is a four pin plug in.. lettered S, L, F, and P.

how do I hook this up?
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You need a new, separate #6AWG (or larger) charge wire to run directly from the alternator to the battery. This wire replaces the not-heavy-enough OEM charge wire, which can simply be folded back onto the harness and taped off. If you try to use it, you will someday blow the fusible link. Some folks have bypassed the fusible link, but it protects the remainder of the vehicle wiring and prevents an electrical fire. Just one electrical fire could ruin your whole day.

The two wires used on the CS130 are the S (sense) and L (lamp) terminals. You'll need a compatible plug to make a clean connection to the CS130. You can buy the adapter pre-made from Paul at "adventure-off-rd" on eBay, or scrounge the parts and make it yourself.

I think it's better to connect the S (sense) terminal directly to the output stud, once you've got the heavy dedicated charge wire going to the battery. The S terminal allows for remote sense, which I'm inclined NOT to use in this configuration (because a flaky sense connection in 20-year-old wiring could result in "boiling" the battery). The L terminal goes to the charge indicator light and provides a tickle of current through the bulb to get the alternator started at low RPM. Once the alternator gets started, it is self-exciting and the lamp goes out.

"Warbird" posted a CS130 wiring option "B" for the PLFS configuration at GM CS130 alternator recently. This is a popular subject, and there is much to be found through searching.
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Merlin, You truly are a wizard! Thank You for your reply!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin93 View Post
You need a new, separate #6AWG (or larger) charge wire to run directly from the alternator to the battery. This wire replaces the not-heavy-enough OEM charge wire, which can simply be folded back onto the harness and taped off. If you try to use it, you will someday blow the fusible link. Some folks have bypassed the fusible link, but it protects the remainder of the vehicle wiring and prevents an electrical fire. Just one electrical fire could ruin your whole day.

The two wires used on the CS130 are the S (sense) and L (lamp) terminals. You'll need a compatible plug to make a clean connection to the CS130. You can buy the adapter pre-made from Paul at "adventure-off-rd" on eBay, or scrounge the parts and make it yourself.

I think it's better to connect the S (sense) terminal directly to the output stud, once you've got the heavy dedicated charge wire going to the battery. The S terminal allows for remote sense, which I'm inclined NOT to use in this configuration (because a flaky sense connection in 20-year-old wiring could result in "boiling" the battery). The L terminal goes to the charge indicator light and provides a tickle of current through the bulb to get the alternator started at low RPM. Once the alternator gets started, it is self-exciting and the lamp goes out.

"Warbird" posted a CS130 wiring option "B" for the PLFS configuration at GM CS130 alternator recently. This is a popular subject, and there is much to be found through searching.
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Last edited by walkerskyranch; 02-26-2010 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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