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Old 01-27-2010, 06:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Much work installing a manual choke 32/36 carby?

The old factory carby needs an overhaul in my 1.3 Sierra, but rebuild costs are too expensive - so I plan to scrap it and install a manual choke Weber 32/36, which is seemingly the preferred conversion anyway.

For the mentioned carby, I can get a conversion kit for around $300, and i'm guessing at a relaxed pace it'll take a half a day to change over. Just want others to troubleshoot for me if they've encountered problems with the same conversion? I'm guessing running the choke control to the dash to be the biggest challenge.


In my previous experience with Webers, they hate going uphill and flood quite easily... is this the case with the 32/36?

I've read that the Weber is a more fuel effiecient carby than the factory option - if i'm getting ~ 350kms/220miles to a tank currently, what can I expect with the weber?
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Also, maybe another option - did Suzi ever make manual choke carbs? I really don't like the auto-choke and would love to be free of it if possible
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have the Water-choke version on my Samurai for 8 years now.

The Choke mechanism is fairly easy to interchange. I have had no problems with the water choke version.

Mine is an early one of the - in some circles - Legendary Sarge-prepared units. Sarge sealed off the excess vacuum ports on the intake manifold with threaded brass plugs, cleaned up the manifold throat for better flow and jetted it for my 1.6 8-valve.

I mounted it backwards - choke facing the head - and that helped some with the uphill stalling problem. I am more of a trail driver than a rock crawler and probably should hit the trails more often than I do. I mostly use it as a backup daily driver with one big adventure a year. I mention all this because my experiences with off-camber starving have been minimal. I was never in a situation where the loss of power caused dangerous situations - only annoying situations.

The only problems that I had with it was a throttle butterfly jam that caused the engine to get stuck at full throttle while on the highway. This was caused by excessive wear on the butterfly shaft's bearing surfaces. A bit of repair by Sarge (Kevin Lafferty) fixed that.

About three years ago, the carb's mounting bolts worked loose causing it to run badly. A bit of simple wrenching in a Home Depot parking lot during a downpour fixed that.

Be aware that there are no more Webers being manufactured in Europe. All new product is from China. You may (or may not) experience a lower level of quality in these new units.

Although you are - from the looks of your personal info - in Australia you should consider the MY-Side side-draft carburetor system from Zuks Offroad in Arizona (ZOR Zuks Off Road).

Assuming that there are Harley-Davidson motorcycles Down Under and said motorcycle owners are converting from Side-draft to Fuel Injection like they are in the States, you should be a ble to find a suitable carb for as little as $80-150 Aus. Possibly cheaper from a Bike shop that does those conversions! They will have them laying about piling up so getting rid of one for any amount of money is a bonus to them!

The big advantage to the MY-Side has been no off-camber stalls and improved engine performance similar to or better than the Weber. Plus, the sidedraft carb is a lot more reliable!

I hope that this helps!

Say Hi to Natalie Tran for me! I will have some Lamingtons waiting for her should she ever come to Kansas City, MO!
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Great tip Ack! All the options on that page are exactly what i've been trying to find - EFI systems even - too cool for school.

What is the better HD carb option for a zook? - the 40mm or the 44mm? Not seeking killer horsepower, moreso ultra-reliability and general fuel efficiency, and cost effectiveness.



Hey cen you tell me how many miles will you get on a full tank with your 1.6?
...Just curious

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Old 01-28-2010, 04:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The samurai carb is actually very fuel eficient and preforms very well if properly maintained and tuned. A lot of people don't understand them because they are very complex with all their vacuum lines and valves. This lack of understanding usually leads to improper tuning or adjustments and they render the unit inoperable and ineficient.

The webber down draft is a good no brainer. Like you mentioned though, its got stall issues at angle, and its not as efficient or as adaptable for temperature or altitude changes as the stock carb. The 2 barrel down drafts aren't any more of a preformance boost than the stock carb if it's dialed in right. You will feel more pull from a standing start with the webber, but it's power curve drops sharply after that initial kick in the pants. This is called the Butt dynometer. It feels like you have more power from that quick start, but your preformance boost pretty much ends there. It can't adjust the fuel mixture based on the O2 sensor since it doesn't use one, it can't control the combustion temperature because it doesn't have the sensors or the EGR controler.

The Dual Twin Side drafts or the Quad linked side drafts however are a completely different monster. Those allow much more volume to flow into the engine. If you install a header and a 2" exhaust so that your engine can breath properly, a set of constant velocity side drafts will allow the maximum power that your engine can provide with natrual aspiration. Not as efficient or refined in fuel consumption as a electronic multi point fuel injection system, but it will provide the full power potential of the engine.

EMPFI is the best of the best. It's more expensive, more wires and electronics, but for engine preformance and management, you don't get better than that. You get the maximum engine power output and the most efficient fuel mixture for all conditions so that you aren't wasting fuel in an ineficient burn.
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