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Old 01-09-2010, 03:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Fan and clutch removal

Well I hope these questions aren't annoying because I have more! I just took the radiator and shroud out. I've been reading the FSM which says to get to the timing belt, remove the fan and clutch. I did not see where it tells you how to remove the fan and clutch. I see 4 bolts (10mm I think) on the front of the fan, is that what needs to come out? If so, what's the trick to keeping the fan from spinning while trying to loosen these bolts?
Thanks again
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Disregard that question. I just had to put a little more umph into removing those bolts while holding the fan blades in place. I have all that off, including the timing cover. I'm going to stop here for the day and the mechanic neighbor is gonna come by tomorrow and take a look at things and make sure I don't make any major mistakes.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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if you are going to change the timing belt. set up the timing marks before removing the old belt. this will save you time on the new belt install.
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yup, that's part of why my neighbor's coming by tomorrow. I want to make sure I mark it properly. So far, for my own time today getting to the timing belt, I wish someone would pay me $600+ to replace their timing belt like I got charged 8 years ago on my last one. Although that was a Subaru, maybe a little more difficult to get to. Who knows, this is a great learning experioence, and fun!
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Old 01-12-2010, 02:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The FSM says the following about timing belt installation:

" Before installing timing belt to camshaft pulley and crankshaft timing belt pulley, loosen all valve adjusting screws of intake and exhaust rocker arms fully, or check to ensure they are loose.

This is to permit free rotation of camshaft for the following reason; when installing timing belt to both pulleys, belt should be correctly tensed by tensioner spring force. If camshaft does not rotate freely, belt will not be correctly tensed by tensioner."

Does everyone do this? Silly me adjusted all my valves before replacing my timing belt. It really doesn't take that long to adjust the valves so not a big deal but I never heard of loosening all the valve screws when replacing a timing belt.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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This is from Kick-Fix's website. He's at the Tracker forum. You may be able to use it for reference.
timing belt swap
click on the link
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1997 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1994 Geo Tracker, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd

1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto


RUST NEVER SLEEPS IN THE RUSTBELT!

Last edited by ranger88den; 01-12-2010 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That's great, thanks Ranger! I can read it all a couple times while I wait for the part to arrive.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I am assuming you have the 1.3 8v engine. Know that the 1.3 & 1.6 engines are infamous for wallowed out crankshaft keyway for the timing gear; you may want to check. Also, many replace the crank & cam seals along with the waterpump while it's apart. Good luck with your project.
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1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1994 Geo Tracker, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd

1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto


RUST NEVER SLEEPS IN THE RUSTBELT!
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ranger,
Yes I have the 1.3. I went out and marked be cam and crank pulleys and I'm a little concerned. The cam lines up perfectly with the mark on the casing but the crank seems to line up exactly between a tooth and a space on the cam. It just seems to be it should be in a def spot one way or the other. What do you think? Do you need a pic?
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Old 01-13-2010, 05:37 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrenchwoman View Post
Ranger,
Yes I have the 1.3. I went out and marked be cam and crank pulleys and I'm a little concerned. The cam lines up perfectly with the mark on the casing but the crank seems to line up exactly between a tooth and a space on the cam. It just seems to be it should be in a def spot one way or the other. What do you think? Do you need a pic?
Okay, I gave you the link as reference only as it's for 1.6 engines, but 1.3 may be the same. You really should have a FSM (factory service manual) (Haynes & Chilton are incomplete and have discrepancies) for the job. Yes the belt is probably off a 1/2 notch, it is recommended, after timing belt install, to rotate the belt 2 or 3 times to ensure alignment. I can state from personal experience that this is necessary because what seems to be in perfect alignment upon initial install is off a cog when rotated a couple of times. Good luck
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1997 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1995 Geo Tracker, 2dr convertible/hardtop, 1.6, 16v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1992 Geo Tracker LSI, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd
1991 Geo Tracker, 2dr hardtop (TT), 1.6, 8v, 3 spd auto, 4wd
1994 Geo Tracker, 2 dr convertible, 1.6, 8v, 5 spd manual, 4wd

1988 Ford Ranger, p/u, 2.9, 3pd auto


RUST NEVER SLEEPS IN THE RUSTBELT!
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