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Old 08-01-2009, 01:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Timing belt issues

Took off timing belt on 88 samurai, made the mistake of turning cam without turning crank, now vavles arent opening and closing on right piston stroke. How do I realinge everything?
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default timing

so you found out you need to set timing marks before removing old timing belt. haha . not a big problem. the first thing you will need to do is find out where the pistons are at. remove spark plugs and use a wood rod or stiff wire to feel down into each cylinder, as you rotate the crank (by hand using bolt at end of crankshart, not starter) you will find that two piston will be coming to the top to the same time. before reaching the top set camshaft so one cylinder has both valves closed and the other so that exhaust valve is closing and the intake is opening. at this point there is clearance for these two pistons to not hit valves. now slowly rotate crankshaft (if you don't have it set right you will feel the piston hit valve, so go slow and you won't damage anything). when you feel number one piston coming up to top, set camshaft marks correct position , finish rotating crank to top number one cylinder. install belt and you are done.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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First of all - The Suzuki 1.3 is a non-interference motor. That means that when you throw/snap a timing belt the valves will NEVER contact the pistons. This makes it a bit less expensive when things go wrong.

The factory setting mark on the cam pulley needs to be lined up with the v notch on the top of the timing belt cover backing plate (12:00). The factory setting mark on the crank gear (pulley) needs to be at the top also (12:00). the crank. Normal for almost all other engines is not the same for the 1.3. When the crank and cam are set correctly, the disty needs to point at the position for #3 plug wire (instead of #1). This is the only thing I have found to be incorrect in the FSM.

One thing that will be helpful to have handy when you are working on your Sammy is the Factory Service Manual. It gives you all these settings and more. If you don't want to spend the $60-$70 bucks for an original, go to .:Suzuki Download Archive:. and download a pdf copy.
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I did not look in manual to see if the 1.3 was an inferance motor , I just gave you the generic motor rotation instructions.
the distributor will be pointing to the #4 spark plug terminal not the #3 when the triming marks are set.
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Old 12-16-2009, 05:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billjohn View Post
First of all - The Suzuki 1.3 is a non-interference motor. That means that when you throw/snap a timing belt the valves will NEVER contact the pistons. This makes it a bit less expensive when things go wrong.

The factory setting mark on the cam pulley needs to be lined up with the v notch on the top of the timing belt cover backing plate (12:00). The factory setting mark on the crank gear (pulley) needs to be at the top also (12:00). the crank. Normal for almost all other engines is not the same for the 1.3. When the crank and cam are set correctly, the disty needs to point at the position for #3 plug wire (instead of #1). This is the only thing I have found to be incorrect in the FSM.

One thing that will be helpful to have handy when you are working on your Sammy is the Factory Service Manual. It gives you all these settings and more. If you don't want to spend the $60-$70 bucks for an original, go to .:Suzuki Download Archive:. and download a pdf copy.
Why would you turn the disty 180 degrees if the #3 plug wire is 90 degrees to the #1 plug wire? I just want to make sure I change mine correctly.
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Old 12-16-2009, 06:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Take a look at this post thread:

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...r-setting.html

"Must - avoid - saying - something - obnoxious..."

I hope that this helps!
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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had to read that other topic to know what you were talking about zook. The engine makes 2 rotations for every one rotation of the distributor. So if you have the crank lined up at TDC and your cylinder that the rotor is pointing at is on the exhaust stroke(ehaust valve open intake valve closed) instead of the compression stroke (intake and exhaust valve both closed) you can take the dizzy out and rotate it 180 deg to the correct cyl that is supposed to be firing. Usually this is only necessary if you've removed the head or cam or in this case, turned the cam without the crank. It comes in handy when you have it all reasembled and don't want to pull the timing belt off to realign the cam 180 degrees (the other option) The top part that you adjust while the distributor is engaged is for advancing or retarding the timing a few degrees.

as for setting it to the number 3 cylinder, I think ack meant the number 4... the timing marks for the cam and crank put the 1 and 4 cyl at TDC but the 1 is on the exhaust stroke and the 4 on the compression stroke, so the rotor on the dizzy should be pointed at #4. When you turn the crank 360 degrees to TDC again, the dizzy should then be pointed at number 1 and the cam alignment mark should be 180 degrees off.

Right?
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Ok, I am beginning to understand it a bit more!! Thanks for the information. That makes a lot more sense now. When I line up the 'T' on the bell housing then the disty is pointing at #1 and the crankshaft is at 0 degrees, so the disty should actually be pointing at #4 when like this? So in this case I would need to rotate the disty 180 degrees. I have only had the vehicle about 2 months so not sure what was done before on her.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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with the timing mark on the bell housing set at zero, the dizzy could be pointing at either 1 or 4. The distributor only turns 180 degrees for every 360 degrees that the engine turns. The number 1 and 4 cylinders are both going to be at the top of their stroke when the crank is at zero, but only one of them is on the ignition/combustion stroke while the other one of them has the exhaust valve open and is on the exhaust stroke, depending on where the cam is at in it's rotation. The distributor needs to be synched up with the cam. If it's 180 degrees off, the engine will not start. The starter will crank it, but the engine will not fire at all.

If you are getting any kind of sputter out of the engine then you are not 180 degrees off.

Your situation may not be the same as the original poster of this topic.

If you havn't had the timing belt off, and you havn't pulled the distributor out and turned it around, then you should be lined up correctly already.
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Old 12-17-2009, 11:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Oh ok, I think I am probably lined up correctly as she runs pretty well and starts up first time every time, so I guess don't need to fix what is not broke!! I thought maybe it was not set correctly as I am trying to sort out my high fuel consumption.

Thanks for the help!!
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