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Old 03-02-2009, 01:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Hi everyone I'm only new to the site and new to suzukis...I have had my sierra classic (1994) for 1 year now and it has developed a very noisy knock/rattle near the rear of the engine...I have spoken to local mechanics and have since had the gearbox reco'd and the clutch replaced....Now it appears the noise is louder and only when in gear and during acceleration.....any help would be appreciated thankyou....
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I posted about a knock I had in ours to a thread ( https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...ine-knock.html ) started by muddysj. Mine sounded like it was coming from the rear of the engine too, although before I started listening carefully, I replaced the water pump, timing belt, and fixed a broken bracket for the alternator.

I put in a can of STP and the knock is gone unless the revs get pretty high. So I think squid's suggestion that it was piston slap was probably correct.

Phil
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Old 03-03-2009, 12:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the tip ...... Is the STP a higher grade of oil,,,I haven't seen it around here but will look on the w/end and get back to you......
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It's an oil additive that increases the viscosity (thickness) of the oil. Been around for many decades. I actually used another brand (Bardahl) that was on the shelf above the STP and is functionally the same thing ... honey-like consistancy. The Bardahl brand mentioned "stops smoking from valve seals" which I suspected was a problem with ours. The smoking mostly stopped, the knocking mostly stopped, and it was all of a $3 "fix".

The container said to use 1/2 for a 4 cylinder engine. I did and although less, the knock was still there. I dumped in the rest of the bottle and after some engine run time, the noise almost disappeared and it no longer smokes the entire time we have it running... still smokes at startup.

Of course, nothing is actually "fixed", only they symptoms are masked. Someday I may get enough time and ambition to do a quick in-frame overhaul of the 1.3L.

Phil
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Old 03-04-2009, 02:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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thanks again for the tips will search out prodicts this w/end and trial them..appreciate all the help ...let you know the results in a few days on this post
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Old 03-19-2009, 01:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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managed to d an oil additive like the one you spoke of and put it in on the w/end..seems to have quietened down the engine but the existing noise now seems clearer and louder.. this is confusing to me and it looks as though more examination is in order..the noise is only when in gear and under load from the engine......thanks for all the help, will continue to try new ideas.....
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muller View Post
managed to d an oil additive like the one you spoke of and put it in on the w/end..seems to have quietened down the engine but the existing noise now seems clearer and louder.. this is confusing to me and it looks as though more examination is in order..the noise is only when in gear and under load from the engine......thanks for all the help, will continue to try new ideas.....
No offense to the suggest from Phil. (Sorry if I do step on a toe here but just like to share my personal experience)

I've also tried using STP and other brands of oil additives when I bought a used Jimny SJ410 back in 2007. Didn't have any knock/rattle on my engine but the white smokes was bad enough to give anyone a bad day. Same old story, tried out a cheap treatment. After a couple of months using such additives (STP and Cyclo Smoke Treatment) my engine internals were clogged up with what looks like a heavy sludge, guess what, problem still remains. Spent a small fortune to overhaul and replacing various parts. (Not to mention a long lecture from the mechanic telling me never to use that stuff again....guess he didn't want to make too much money from fixing my car again)

After that I did some look up on the net and found some interesting articles. You could have a look at

FTC Sues Speedway Motorsports and Oil-Chem Subsidiary
STP Corporation, and its Parent Corporation, First Brands Corporation, Pay $888,000 Civil Penalty to Settle FTC Charges...

Well, guess I've learnt my lesson. About your knock/rattle issue, perhaps you might want to get a closer look to make sure nothing is loose, cracked or worst around the rear of the engine. If you could be a little more descriptive, perhaps we could try and look into this further.

Good luck.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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interesting ponts you make....the rattle i speak of comes in only when the car is in gear and under acceleration.. when idling there is no noise.. as i am in the car when this happens i can only hear from the inside but it does seem to come from around the gearstick area...have had the clutch replaced and the gearbox reco'd....it sounds very metallic moreso than anything else but it is also similar to a diesel engine rattle that is so common....could be timing ??????? there is no oil leaks or loose parts that i can identify externally.......still left confused???????????
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hi Muller, This gonna be tough if you're driving and trying to figure out where the sound is coming from. Especially in the under carriage, not to mention the Zuk being relatively small its gonna be hard figuring out if the sound is really coming from the front, mid or rear section. Anyway, lets try to narrow things down a little shall we?

Try checking all the Cross Joints on the both Front and Rear Prop Shafts? It could be slightly worn and causing the rattle when the vehicle is moving. Change it before it gets worst or someday you'll be driving and it suddenyl feels like the whole Jeep is gonna fall apart (Knocking, Rattling and Vibrating)...Learnt my lesson the hard way...again.

Alternatively before going back to the mechanic, do a quick self test. Try accelerating and switch to neutral while letting the Zuk roll. (Turn off the radio, air-con, windows closed ,keep your co-pilot quiet and take your foot off the gas pedal...hehehe, Need maximum silence when you do this). Best do this going down hill to maintain speed in neutral.

a) Listen carefully, If the Konck/Rattle still persists, it's likely the cross joint, something lose or broken component mountings in the engine bay or undercarriage. It's gonna be hard to identify this unless you get a close look, getting under the vehicle or even to the point of taking certain components apart. By the way, just to be sure, make sure your battery is secured tightly too....you never know.

b) If the knock/rattle is gone while just rolling on neutral, then could be problem in the Transfer box or Gearbox. Suggest you find another mechanic that specialize in Suzuki Sierras, Jeeps, or at least off road vehicles.

c) Stop the Zuk, open the engine hood. (park somewhere safe for this please, not in the middle of the road on a downhill slope...haha). Step on the gas and rev it up between 2500~3000 rpm and keep it there for a couple of seconds, does the knocking and rattle persist? If it does, then have a mechanic check your engine.

Unless you engine is in REALLY bad shape, I doubt the Piston, valve or other moving parts inside the engine would be making that kind of knock/rattle. If it is indeed in bad shape, my suggestion would be to do a overhaul rather than using any oil additives. (Pay Now or Pay Much More Later...)

Last but not least, is your Zuk is running on the original Sierra engine or has it been replaced with something more powerful/up to date? Make sure you're using the right octane petrol....dumb question, but just checking anyway.

Well, hopefully this helps to narrow things down so you can get to the right mechanic for the job. Good luck.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Forgot to ask, when was the last time you or the previous owner changed the transmission, transfer and differential oil?

Have you also check the Exhaust Pipes/Heat Shield/Clamps? One of those could be lose.
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