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Old 01-22-2009, 08:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 86 Samurai rear crank seal ?

How hard is it to replace the rear crank seal with the engine in. I have a very oily clutch. Thanks Ken
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Old 01-22-2009, 04:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Default Rear Seal

It isn't hard to do it in the vehicle. You may find it to be more cramped and dirty, but what do you expect? You should remove some of the steering components to make it more workable. Good luck.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Replacing the rear crankshaft seal can be done by removing the engine or removing the transmission. To remove the transmission is a little tricky because after you have disconnected everything, you need to grind off a rib of the bottom of the transmission for clearance from the crossmember. Now, the crankshaft seal is "hidden" in front of the flywheel which would limit it's ability to get to the clutch. Oil on the clutch is more likely coming from the front transmission seal.
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Unless you have a grinder to remove the metal from the bottom of the transmission, you best remove the engine. If the transmission seal is the problem, I would suggest replacing the rear engine seal at the same time while you have it open. I assume you realise the oily clutch cannot be re-used.
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Old 01-25-2009, 11:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default 86 Samurai rear crank seal

Thanks, I will read the manual again. I don't remember seeing anything about grinding. Ken
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've pulled my tranny several times and it is the easiest way to go. It is best to rip everything out, including the transfer case. MAke sure you completely remove the front drive shaft. I did not have to grind anything off but I have a body lift so maybe that is the difference. I get nervous about distrubing brittle wires under the hood so that is why I go the tranny route, it is mostly mechanical and it would be easier to change the front transmission seal on the floor. Remember to support the rear of the engine so it doesn't tip back and bind on the input shaft. I use a "rachet strap" across the fenders and down around back of the engine. THis gives you some adjustment with the rachet portion.

Good Luck.
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