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Old 12-21-2008, 10:44 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Towing a Samurai with a Tow Dolly

Hi
I'm new here but my love for Samurais runs deep.
I have found conflicting information about towing a Samurai on a tow dolly.
Can anyone please give me the proper answer ?

Towing backwards (rear wheels on the dolly and front wheels on the road) makes me really nervous. If something happens with that steering wheel lock, that's all she wrote for the Suzuki and me and the tow vehicle.

A tow bar is out because the front of the Suzuki is really rotten and barring a lot of welding, there's nothing solid to bolt up to.

Has anyone had any experience with a tow dolly and a Samurai ?

Thanks a lot,

Dave
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Old 12-28-2008, 05:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You can tow it front end forward...T. case and tranny in neutral and key in the ignition so the steering wheel isn't locked...good luck


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Old 12-28-2008, 08:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUZUKIJOHN View Post
You can tow it front end forward...T. case and tranny in neutral and key in the ignition so the steering wheel isn't locked...good luck

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When you put a Samurai t-case in neutral, it is in 4wd mode. There is no true neutral in a stock sammy t-case. In other words, the front and rear driveshaft are locked together and will turn equally. You can use a tow dolly as long as the front hubs are unlocked. But understand that both of the driveshafts and the t-case gears are still spinning, so you will still have to run the engine for a few minutes every 200 miles to properly lube the case. This comes from the manual.

If you add a rear driveshaft disconnect you would be able to all day long without worrying about the zook. I run the disconnect on the street sammy and a set of rear hub locks on the trail sammy. This was a result of a bad experiance involving t-case destruction and a disappearing $300 driveshaft (it's hard to tell something is wrong back there if you are towing behind a motorhome...)

Another option is to install a twin stick kit. This involves taking apart the t-case to remove the center detent ball, so it is a bit more messy. But this will give you a true neutral.
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Old 12-29-2008, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Hmmm. Okay.
I am going to try to disconnect the rear flange of the driveshaft at the rear axle and then tie the driveshaft up.
Disconnecting the rear end would have to be the best way of towing ?

If I can't disconnect it from the axle, I will put everything in neutral and stop every now and then a run the engine for a while.

Sound reasonable ?

Thanks very much for your help,


Dave
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Surfnut;149734]Hmmm. Okay.
I am going to try to disconnect the rear flange of the driveshaft at the rear axle and then tie the driveshaft up.
Disconnecting the rear end would have to be the best way of towing ? /QUOTE]

YES! Four bolts and you are done. Just don't lose the bolts - and carry spares because you will lose a bolt or two eventually (spoken from experiance).The other options above just keep you from crawling under the vehicle.
I did this until I could get the other solutions installed. You can use a good bungee cord and tie the rear of the driveshaft up to the e-brake cable bracket under the rear floor. You will see it when you slide underneath.
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