Originally Posted by thrutraffic
Possible to do a ring job and replace rod bearings without pulling the engine from the vehicle?
I'm not going to bore the cylinders unless I see damage that requires it. I'm hoping to get by with just ball hone for the cylinder walls.
There is considerable blow by and I've either got piston slap on #4 or a bad rod bearing. There could be other problems causing the knocking noise in the dizzy and I'll have a chance to look for them with the engine open.
I have 2 words "you're mad" and i mean this in a nice way.
you can indeed do rings and con rod bearings in situ, If you can lift the block, or drop the front axle to get the sump off.
Honing is going to spread grinding dust everywhere, no matter how clean you get things afterwards, and no matter how much you protect the crank and main bearings. That oil film on the inside of the block will act like a magnet and then you have an engine full of grinding paste and all your work is down the drain in not too many miles. This is why degreaser tanks were invented and solvent wash baths.
Another thing to consider is that once you are down to the internals, its only about another 10 bolts and a few connectors and the block is out. If you have a bearing knock and that much blowby, the crank is more than likely going to need a grind, and a bore might be your only way of fixing the blowby. Wouldn't surprise me if you find at least 0.010" taper, if not more in the bores too.
I will be interested in seeing the pics and don't forget to lift the main beasring caps and check those bearings as well. If the caps ok, the block shell will be ok as well. You can change these in place, loosen all the caps, this lets the crank drop, then you can push the block shell round and out of the block on the one you are changing. Don't take all the caps off at once, seen that done, wasn't pretty.