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Old 10-05-2018, 10:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 94 Zuk - Rings & Bearings Without Pulling Engine?

Possible to do a ring job and replace rod bearings without pulling the engine from the vehicle?

"Looks" possible.

I'm not going to bore the cylinders unless I see damage that requires it. I'm hoping to get by with just ball hone for the cylinder walls.

===============a

There is considerable blow by and I've either got piston slap on #4 or a bad rod bearing. There could be other problems causing the knocking noise in the dizzy and I'll have a chance to look for them with the engine open.
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Old 10-05-2018, 02:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrutraffic View Post
Possible to do a ring job and replace rod bearings without pulling the engine from the vehicle?

"Looks" possible.

I'm not going to bore the cylinders unless I see damage that requires it. I'm hoping to get by with just ball hone for the cylinder walls.

===============a

There is considerable blow by and I've either got piston slap on #4 or a bad rod bearing. There could be other problems causing the knocking noise in the dizzy and I'll have a chance to look for them with the engine open.
I have 2 words "you're mad" and i mean this in a nice way.

you can indeed do rings and con rod bearings in situ, If you can lift the block, or drop the front axle to get the sump off.
Honing is going to spread grinding dust everywhere, no matter how clean you get things afterwards, and no matter how much you protect the crank and main bearings. That oil film on the inside of the block will act like a magnet and then you have an engine full of grinding paste and all your work is down the drain in not too many miles. This is why degreaser tanks were invented and solvent wash baths.
Another thing to consider is that once you are down to the internals, its only about another 10 bolts and a few connectors and the block is out. If you have a bearing knock and that much blowby, the crank is more than likely going to need a grind, and a bore might be your only way of fixing the blowby. Wouldn't surprise me if you find at least 0.010" taper, if not more in the bores too.
I will be interested in seeing the pics and don't forget to lift the main beasring caps and check those bearings as well. If the caps ok, the block shell will be ok as well. You can change these in place, loosen all the caps, this lets the crank drop, then you can push the block shell round and out of the block on the one you are changing. Don't take all the caps off at once, seen that done, wasn't pretty.
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Old 10-06-2018, 05:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I have 2 words "you're mad" and i mean this in a nice way.

You are absolutely right. Would be madness! I thought about the filing mess it would make on the crank right after I left the house.

I checked the compression:
Cold Warm
1 170 160
2 170 175
3 160 170
4 160 165

That averages out service limit for all cylinders and the knock goes completely away when the engine is hot so I think Iím going to just drive it.



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Old 10-06-2018, 06:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah, getting on the limit, i work on 15 psi difference between cyls as max. Do a wet test and see if they improve, i think they will, which then confirms the sad rings thinking.
if its running ok, drive it.
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Old 10-06-2018, 06:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wet test?


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Old 10-06-2018, 06:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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wet compression test - with a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. If the pressures in the wet test are significantly higher than the dry test, it's an indication of leakage past the rings.
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Old 10-06-2018, 07:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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wet compression test - with a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. If the pressures in the wet test are significantly higher than the dry test, it's an indication of leakage past the rings.


Cool. Will give that a shot!


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Old 10-06-2018, 09:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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get a stethoscope, or failing that a long screwdriver, handle in your ear and tip on the engine, confirm the "knock" is piston slap and not a rod bearing. Slap you can live with, rod knock means it needs bearings sooner rather than later.
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2015 5 dr Grand Vitara 2.4 (daily driver)
1971 V8 HG Holden with 383 stroker 9" torq lok and TH350 trans (the toy)
Mitzi RVR 2.0 (not one of my better buys)
the 2013 3 dr GV is now the off road only toy

"Dogs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark violently at nothing right in your ear."
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
get a stethoscope


Did the steth thing. Canít pin it down. Still sounds like in dizzy.

Replacing the pan gasket next week. Will see if can see or wiggle anything on the bottom end. Probably not but will look.


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Old 10-07-2018, 01:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thrutraffic View Post
Did the steth thing. Canít pin it down. Still sounds like in dizzy.

Replacing the pan gasket next week. Will see if can see or wiggle anything on the bottom end. Probably not but will look.


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its always possible the dizzy drive is getting worn and sloppy.
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2015 5 dr Grand Vitara 2.4 (daily driver)
1971 V8 HG Holden with 383 stroker 9" torq lok and TH350 trans (the toy)
Mitzi RVR 2.0 (not one of my better buys)
the 2013 3 dr GV is now the off road only toy

"Dogs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark violently at nothing right in your ear."
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