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Old 06-20-2017, 12:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Head Gasket Sealer

What are the thoughts on using a head gasket sealer?

I am asking because I purchased this gasket and it failed on me prematurely. I re-decked my cylinder head and trued up the block as best as I could. However, there is a low spot on my block reading -0.003" off (spec is 0.002") on the front corner outer wall and I am just terrified of the gasket failing again.
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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An old school approach is to use a shellac like...



https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2053.../dp/B0008KLOG6
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Old 06-20-2017, 12:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikan View Post
I am asking because I purchased this gasket and it failed on me prematurely.
*this gasket
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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what did u decide to do with this?

did it work out?

i ask because i am close to putting my head back on and i am also dealing with a repeat problem.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you have a head or block that is bad enough to need ANY sealer then you're wasting your time, its going to fail again. Get it re-surfaced.
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Stuff the cylinders with clean, oiled rags to catch all the crud.
Get a piece of steel, minimum 1/4 inch or thicker 8" x 12" the longer the better.
Your local steel supplier will have a lot of scrap pieces that will cost you a dollar a pound about 10 bucks a square foot.
New steel is plenty flat.
3/8th or 1/2 inch are even better, the weight will do the work for you.
NORTON 220 grit three sheets.
One can of 3M spray glue

Glue paper to steel plate, sand in a circular motion.
Be careful and watch what you are doing.
I have used this method on several engines, I have not had any issues.
When it is flat and you have a good swirl pattern clean the surface with a white tee shirt and acetone or lacquer thinner.
Wipe until there is no more color being transferred to the rag from the block, probably three or four wipedowns.
Wipe the head the same way.
Get a FELPRO gasket - yes perm a torque. Use other brands at your own risk, if you do not want to do this again use the Felpro.
DO NOT touch the sealing surface of the gasket the oil from your hands will make it not stick. wear nitrile gloves and only touch the edges of the gasket.
Leave it in the package until you are ready to place it on the block.
Be sure the bolt holes have been chased, take an old head bolt and file a slot on two sides and use it like a tap.
Be sure to blow out the junk when you are finished. lubricate the threads, a drop of oil on the threads, put a little on the white teeshirt rag and wipe the bolt threads with a tiny bit just enough that they are not dry threads. NOT DRIPPING with oil, you do not want it going all over the head and block.
Wipe some oil under the bolt heads and washers, both sides.
Torque to speck. A half-hour later double check your bolts, it won't hurt.

The first start run it up to operating temperature then shut it off and let it cool off, we want to give the gasket and head, block a chance to get to know each other. The heat will help them bond, then they will be together for many years of bliss.

Re-torque after the first run won't hurt it.
Leaving it alone until the next day won't hurt it either.
Next day do it again and check that everything is staying tight.
Then drive it like normal and hope it was all put together right.
While driving down the road you can be thinking about did I do this, that and the other.
I hope there are no surprises.


Don't go cheap on the abrasive, Norton is the best, it stays sharp, cheap paper just rubs the abrasive off the paper.

You can do this, just keep it CLEAN!!!

Don



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Old 08-04-2018, 07:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
If you have a head or block that is bad enough to need ANY sealer then you're wasting your time, its going to fail again. Get it re-surfaced.
i will not have sub standard surfaces when i reassemble.
i ask because i have had engines, in the past, that even with good mating surfaces, still needed a sealer.
i was asking for a legitimate reason.
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Old 08-04-2018, 03:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indian4dirt View Post
i will not have sub standard surfaces when i reassemble.
i ask because i have had engines, in the past, that even with good mating surfaces, still needed a sealer.
i was asking for a legitimate reason.
Fair enough response.

The use of a sealer on head gaskets has been a debate for many years. Some people say you should use one, others say not to. I'm in the don't use sealer camp, having had to deal with the aftermath of shellac based sealers when the gasket fails again.
I have never had any success with any engine that has required a sealer on a head gasket. The gaskets are designed to seal without the use of sealants, and even plan solid copper head gaskets seal and are reliable as long as the preparation work is done properly. I have found people being too fastidious with prep and actually having the surface "too good" which then causes further issues. As long as the surfaces is flat and free from defects then there should be no reason why it won't seal.
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