Somebody. Anybody. Please help!
I did a 1995 Suzuki Sidekick, 16v 1.6L engine conversion into a 1988.5 Samurai. I've had nothing but a house of horrors ever since. This has been the worst experience of my life with this rig. Wishing I stayed with the 1.3 8v now....
Here's what has occurred so far:
1. Removed engine from Samurai
2. Removed Samurai harness and original ECM
3. Installed Sidekick harness and ECM
4. Installed VSS into Speedometer
5. Installed 1989 F-150 fuel pump and filter (they run 40-45 psi)
6. Installed Thorley header and catalytic converter w/ Magnaflow exhaust
7. Installed engine to transmission adapter plate
8. Dropped conversion engine into Samurai
So far so good...but first problem reared its ugly head as soon as I started the engine the first time
Engine high idle problem upon getting it running, with stalling after idling for approx 5-8 mins. Ran codes. Got 34 for MAF sensor and 21 for IAT.
1. Replaced MAF and IAT, cleared codes.
2. ECM now spits out code 12 - everything normal.
Still giving high idle when first started, and stalling after warming up and running for approx 5-8 mins. It will not hold 800 rpms.
Phase 2 troubleshooting.
1. Cleaned EGR - No change
2. Cleaned Idle Speed Control Valve - No change
3. Adjusted TPS - Idle no longer racing high on start up, but still stalling after warming up when it drops to 800 RPMs
4. Found idle air screw o-ring cut - replaced with no change
5. Replaced Thermostat - No change
6. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor - No change
7. Checked all vacuum lines - found none leaking
8. Checked intake plenum and gaskets for leaks - found none leaking
9. Replaced both vacuum solenoid valves (canister purge and EGR) - No change
10. Replaced idle speed control valve - no change
11. Checked EGR vacuum modulator and EGR valve itself - no leaks
12. Replaced O2 sensor - no change
13. Tested thermal idle air control valve (the one on the throttle body itself) - tested good
14. Checked coolant lines to IAC and ISC - both good - no obstructions
15. Cleaned throttle body and checked stop screw setting - not binding or sticking
16. Verified throttle cable has slack
17. Re-verified TPS adjustment just for the hell of it - no change
18. Replaced plugs and wires - no change
19. Replaced distributor cap and rotor - no change
20. Replaced PCV valve - no change
21. Checked valve adjustment - no issues/all adjusted normal
22. Checked compression - no issues/all seem to be normal
23. Checked for fault codes - still showing 12 which is all indications are normal
Still has high idle when first started (2,000-2,500 rpm), and stalls after dropping down to 800 rpms after warming up and running for approx 5-8 mins.
Phase 3 troubleshooting began.
Suspect this has everything to do with the warmup cycle and something is just not acting right once the ECM senses the engine is warmed. It's as if when it tries to go to closed loop it stumbles and stalls. It cannot be saved by feathering the throttle. It will restart almost every time. But occasionally it won't restart without sitting for a few mins. Guy I bought engine from says the ECMs are notorious for causing stalling.
1. Ordered & replaced ECM- No change
2. Removed fuel filter to see if it was clogged - no change
3. Tested EGTS on EGR valve - no issues/works fine
Nothing I have done so far has had any effect on fixing the stalling when it gets warm. I've ordered a new coil tonight. One of the posts I read said sometimes coils can cause stalling when they get hot. Strange thing is, it only stalls once it drops down to 800 and runs for a few mins. Can't think of anything else it could be. It simply will not hold idle at 800. Considering getting a new fuel pump and possibly changing out the fuel pump relays. They seemed hot to touch last time I ran it. I'm at a complete loss and very frustrated. I am running out of options. I don't know how to check injectors. The thought has crossed my mind that they might be bad but this is always at idle so I'm not so sure.
Any experts out there on the 16v 1.6 mill? Please help.....