Hi to all my samurai is liking oil for the fuel pump ,the oil is coming out for the rear pipe the one that doesn’t have any house I believe that this is for release vapors ,but is leaking a lot or oil ,the fuel pump is new any idea
Thanks
when you pull the pump off you will see a little metal rod. you need to turn the motor until the rod sits as far into the block as possible.... is anyone able to elaborate why for us?...
that oil coming out of there does mean the diaphragm is broken. which means the pump is pushing fuel into the oil, VERY bad. make sure you change the oil and oil filter when you change the pump. but its an easy job. i have absolutely no mechanical knowledge, and i did it with no problems. But DO NOT DRIVE IT until its done. fuel diluting the oil means its not lubricating properly.
quick question, has anyone else noticed how many people are reporting that their fuel pumps are breaking in the last 2 or 3 months?...
when you pull the pump off you will see a little metal rod. you need to turn the motor until the rod sits as far into the block as possible.... is anyone able to elaborate why for us?...
The less pressure you have on the pump when you install it, the better chance you will seat it correctly. Why fight the spring pressure if you don't have to. i have done it bothways, but with the rod all the way in was easier.
How's that?
Did you see my thread on this issue? I have a brand-new fuel pump and it's not seating on the head- leaking oil from the lowest part of the pump's mating surface in spite of RTV and a gasket. Something's warped, but the pump that I took off didn't leak, so I don't know what's up- I'm still working on it.
If I don't get this whipped pretty soon I'm think I'll just convert to electric.
i did it about a month or so ago too. but i think mine was broken for quite a while before i realised, because i was very stupid when it came to cars (still am, just to a lesser degree because of this forum). I changed the oil 4 times and the filter twice, and the oil still has a light petrol smell to it. so changing those is a must
gives me peace of mind, because i didnt do that... it was most of the way out. just sat the pump in place and did both bolts up at a fairly equal rate... couple of turns on one bolt, couple of turns on the other...
I found it easier to turn the engine by hand until the rod was as in as far as it could go... then put on the pump.
that said, I would think about yanken the thing off and going electric.
has many advantages and never a chance to mix gas in the oil again.
i considered it, but no idea what i was doing... how do you go about that? obviously need a pump, but need some way to regulate pressure depending on engine speed and throttle percentage?? and (im assuming) some sort of metal plate to go over the hole where the fuel pump sat...
I'm strongly thinking about this, myself. The idea of totally eliminating fuel/oil mix sounds like a good idea to me.
However, I have a brand-new mechanical pump and no good reason as to why it's not working/fitting. I want to solve that problem first then I'll feel okay about going electric. Hmmpppfff...
If the mating surface of the egine block is warped then it could be holding the pump arm too far away from the actuator rod shimming it up with gaskets and RTV just bring it further away from the rod. It doesn't move very much, so just a little distance will render it inefective or at least ineficient. Get a straight guide and check where the high spot is between the mounting bolts if you feel comfortable in griding down that high spot you can use an angle grinder to flaten it out. If not you can take it into a shop and have it done. Be sure to stuff the hole so that metal shavings don't get inside the block. Have a fire extinguisher handy since you'll be working around your fuel lines and make sure the fuel lines are capped off.
If the mating surface of the egine block is warped then it could be holding the pump arm too far away from the actuator rod shimming it up with gaskets and RTV just bring it further away from the rod. It doesn't move very much, so just a little distance will render it inefective or at least ineficient.
Electric pumps are inexpensive and easy to install. You need to get a low pressure pump that's internally regulated or get an unregulated pump and put a regulator in-line. Since your pump isn't working you can either cap it off and seal it to the block with RTV so you don't have an oil leak, or you can make a blanking plate to go over the opening. The electric pump won't last you 10 or 15 years like the mechanical one, but if you can't use the mechanical pump then you don't have a lot of options. If you can't return the pump you just got, you may be able to sell it on ebay. It seems that a lot of samurai's are coming up on the end of their fuel pumps life expectancy. (judging from the flood of inquirys lately about changing fuel pumps)
I've been reading Ack's FAQ and some other sites and have the parts lined up on Amazon. Looks like about $100 for everything by the time I do shipping and all that.
I might just toss the new pump on here, too. I assume we have a classified section...
Are there any ADVANTAGES to an electric fuel pump? Besides eliminating the gas/oil issue, which seems to me like a pretty big advantage, actually.
I set up mine as a pusher... mounted on the frame near the tank so I must have done it wrong... It's lasted about 10 years so far...
shoot, when my parts washer pump died I used an old 110v to 12v converter I had and got another fuel pump for the parts washer.
Cheap and simple.
I will still probably switch to electric but I can do that later, AFTER I've driven Suzy around a bit to see if she'll even suit my purpose. I'm sort of holding on to my modification $$$ until I see how well she's going to work as a run-around-the-ranch rig.
If you have an off the shelf autozone pump that lasts 10 years that's amazing. There are a lot of electric pumps out there though and they vary in quality and longevity. I think if you're aiming for a 2 year life span you won't have any trouble making that target and then some. On average you should get at least 5 out of a cheap pump. My mechanical pump is still going after 22 years... it's gotta be time for it to go about now.
The one thing that may have something to do with how long it has lived is I have a return line going back to the tank so I guess there isn't much back pressure on the pump.(?) I look at it this way: the pump is just to run the fuel to the filters and back to the tank. It just so happens a little gets directed to the carb.
It is a Puralator from Pep Boys. (If I remember correctly, but I guess it's a generic that they just re-label.) The fuel pump can easily damage the needle/carb if not regulated.
If I remember right I'm running two (used to be three) filters on the feed line. I used to have to buy gas from all types of mom & pop stations and would get crap from the bottom of their tanks.
I also have a Puralator fuel pressure reg. that I normally run on the street (heavy foot) 2 or 2.5, normal 1.5 or 2, and for trail use as low as .5 but many times 1 or 1.5.
My only complaint is the pump is _loud_. I thought about making a little insulated steel box for it just for the noise but never did. Oh and btw, it's a noisy pump. When I turn it on it's louder until it reaches some sort of pressure, then gets a little less obnoxious.
This pump has lasted... at least 60-80,000 miles. (so far)
If it ever stops raining I'll run out and take a few picts of the fuel setup.
Where does the return line come from? There's not a line from the carb, is there? I thought a return line should be just about essential- for the reason you just mentioned. Otherwise it seems like the pump's going to be working against pressure unless you get the flow just exactly right.
definitely run a regulator with a return line to the tank! The samurai has the return line built into the pump, not the carb. If you don't put a regulator with a return line to the tank, you will flood the float chamber and dump fuel. I had my electric pump up in the engine bay, so it took a while for the pump to prim and durring the wait, it clattered really loud, resonating off of the body like a big steele drum. The closer the pump is to the tank, the quicker it will prime on startup.
I think I've got it. Because Ack's FAQ shows the return coming from the carb (*), I was thinking it had to do that, but you're right, of course, the stock system doesn't do that. It seems that you could put the return anywhere, as long as it's past the pump and regulator.
Any reason why I shouldn't just use the stock fuel lines and pop a pump/regulator in line close to the tank? Seems like I could then just put a simple T where the stock fuel pump is. Line in comes up, plugs into a T. The leg of the T runs to the carb, the arm runs back to the tank. The whole line gets pressurized, excess pressure/fuel goes back to the tank. Is that right?
no, put the return line _before_ the regulator.
you want to regulate the fuel to the carb only. any extra fuel is then routed back to the tank.
and off hand I don't remember if my first filter is before or just after the pump... but you can't have too many.
To post pictures, you need to host them somewhere- I use Photobucket. Then, you get the link to that picture and either click on the little yellow icon above or you surround it with [ IMG ] and then [ /IMG ] (with no spaces- I had to use those to get it to display.
Looks just like the one I have... I bet there is one manufacture and everyone just re-labels them.
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