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Old 07-21-2015, 10:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Samurai WON'T HOLD WATER

Hey all,

I recently went through a head gasket, when I let my brother install it, he forgot to punch out the holes in the new head gasket before installing it.
So I went back in and did the head gasket correctly. Afterwards, I flushed the entire cooling system (a bunch of junk came out) then buttoned it back up. I ended up replacing the radiator, the water pump and all the gaskets. I just added an electric fan and got rid of the stock fan clutch.

I started it up and it ran fine, let it get to operating tempature and it held nicely. So I decided I would go around the block a few times to test it out.

I was about 3 miles away from my house, and I started to notice the temp gauge was rising.

I went another mile before the temp guage made me worry enough to pull over.

I took my towell and slowly opened up the radiator and noticed that there was NO WATER inside.

When I filled it back up, it was very slow to start. I then revved it up from the engine bay and saw that water was spitting out the overflow tube.

What does this mean? I have replaced the radiator, fan, water pump, fluids, and gaskets.
The timing is at 10* TDC and has no smoke.

Any ideas/help?!

Thank you!
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuraijack View Post
I just added an electric fan and got rid of the stock fan.
This right here.
what size electric fan?
what volume of air can it push?

did you properly bleed the coolant system?
I like to run the heater and drive around and recheck the coolant level.

if its full though and you are spewing its definitely overheating.

I would start by putting the old fan back on.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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it is a 2250 CFM, 14" its identical to the Flex-a-Lite fans.
What do you mean by properly bleed the coolant system?
The heater was on high when I first noticed the temp guage rising.

But, even when cold, I can rev it up and the water pushes out of the overflow tube.

P.S. It has a new raditaor cap as well.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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To bleed I usually drive with the heater on and I try to stay close to home in case something happens. drive it. let it sit once it has cooled check the fill level and try again. if air is trapped it will overheat rather quickly if its a big enough air pocket.

I would also test the thermostat. throw it in a pot of boiling water and see if it opens and how much.

I would also pressure test the system
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The thermostat does work, there was no air pockets, I let it warm all the way up with the raditaor cap off, then was able to watch it flow through, no chuncks anywhere or crazy pressure.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samuraijack View Post
The thermostat does work, there was no air pockets, I let it warm all the way up with the raditaor cap off, then was able to watch it flow through, no chuncks anywhere or crazy pressure.
I don't quite understand. did you pressure test the system with a pressure tester? did you pull the thermostat out and watch it open? did you test the cap (even though it was new) We can't assume anything.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I did not pressure test the system. I did watch the thermostat open, this was right before I put it in when I bought it.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I also have concerns regarding these holes you punched out on the new head gasket. you did not reuse the head gasket when you took it off the second time did you?
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No no no lol I did not reuse the head gasket. Haha

Does this look correct?
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Samurai WON'T HOLD WATER-image_1437525496909.jpg  
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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did you hold the old and new gaskets up next to each other to make sure the holes lined up? It seems as if the new one the hole is further apart.
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