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Old 11-11-2014, 01:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1992 Samurai idling issue

Hi folks,

I'm new to the forum and new to Samurais as well. Just picked one up a few weeks ago with a fuel injected 1.3 stock engine. Drove it 6 hours home and discovered it had a few issues...just a few.

The first was the idle was not all that great. At operating temps it would idle around 800 and oscillate down to where it would almost feel like stalling but wouldn't, and then go back up to 800, and do this consistently.

I then discovered the exhaust manifold had two small cracks and decided to fix this first. Couldn't find a stock replacement anywhere within 75 miles so installed a Thorley header with a 2" exhaust. I replaced the cat as well and the O2 sensor for good measure.

After this I checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any, but still replaced almost every one of the vacuum lines. The idle now changed...it went from an oscillating 800 to 500 rpm to an oscillating 1500 to 1000 rpm, again at operating temps. I sure can't smog it like this.

I took it to a mechanic who found that the EGR was leaking. I told him I would replace it, which I did after I brought it back home. Took it off and it while it didn't have a lot of carbon buildup it certainly had some oil on the inside of one chamber and outside on the diaphragm. Replaced it, but idle remained unchanged.

I had also asked the mechanic to adjust the valve lash while it was there, and he found a nut/bolt (can't remember which he said) was missing from one of the rocker arms, and another one was about to come off! He fixed that and adjusted the valves.

After I replaced the EGR I noticed that the a/c vsv was making a lot of noise now. I took it off and applied battery voltage to the two terminals. I could hear the solenoid click but I could not sense any air flowing from port A to B. I then tested it for continuity. It should show 24-30 ohms resistance but it showed none. I disconnected it and it ran the Sami with no change in idle.

I then got suspicious of my other components. In testing the ISC solenoid valve, Throttle Opener vsv, and EGR vsv on my multimeter, I get no resistance but they all show continuity when they shouldn't, just like the a/c vsv. I'll be rechecking these with a digital multimeter tomorrow but I don't expect any different results and am wondering just how in the world could all these components be failed at the same time?

By the way, no check engine light is occurring at the moment. Gas mileage is terrible, like 10 miles per gallon. The smell of my exhaust tells me the engine is running very rich. Spark plugs show normal on #1 but then as you go down the cylinders it shows richer burning. It has a new fuel filter, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires as well. All fuses look good.

I am nothing close to a mechanic, and am pretty much at the limit of my diagnosing ability. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could test further before I take it to a mechanic again? Sorry for the long explanation but I generally try to do as much research and work on my own as I can before asking questions.

Thanks ahead of time if you're able to help.

Last edited by schrackman; 11-11-2014 at 01:24 AM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:11 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Here is a link with a wealth of information that pertains to the EFI Samurais as the Samurai's engine management is very similar to the Sidekick/Tracker of the same years. This site is hard to navigate but full of substance and maybe the most information on these trucks in any one place. It sure has helped me.

The FixKick.com Repair Pages, for Sidekicks and Trackers

You say there is no check engine light. Does it come on when you turn the key to the run position? If not, then the bulb is probably burnt out or has been removed. You need this working to get the diagnostic codes when you place a fuse in the diagnostic slot of the fuse panel. With the fuse in place, you want a flashing 1-2 engine light. Anything else indicates a problem with a sensor that needs to be fixed.

Last edited by Haptown; 11-11-2014 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link. You are right...that's a ton of info.

So a little progress today. I used my friend's digital multimeter and all those components mentioned above do show resistance within spec, so my analogue multimeter obviously isn't working correctly.

My friend and I also did a compression test at work and the numbers were 148/150/148/150, so I'm assuming the engine's still good.

I also had my wife pick up a new a/c vsv, and I installed that while at work. Drove it 3 miles home, which brought it to operating temp, and noticed that the idle has returned to 800 rpm, but it still sputters a little down to 600-500 rpm and back up to normal, just like it did when I first got it. Exhaust still smells a little rich too, although in checking the spark plugs today they all look pretty even and normal.

So, I'm back to square one it seems.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I almost forgot...in regard to the check engine light, it did work just previous to my replacing the EGR valve. After replacement the light went off.

Tonight I also put a fuse in the diagnostic slot, and I do get a 1 flash then 2 flashes closer together.

Back to the idle. This thing is really making me scratch my head. At times it will idle at 800 and dip down and back up; at other times, it will idle at 1100 and dip down, and then sometimes the idle returns to 800 rpm. I tested the ISC valve electrically and mechanically and its working properly, yet I hear like a quick and successive sucking sound coming from the vacuum hose leading from the ISC to the plastic T at the throttle body, and this is when the engine idles a bit higher. When I pinch that hose the idle seems to go back down to 800 and act about as normal as I can expect it. If I pinch the hose beyond the T, the one that leads into the a/c vsv, there is no change in idle.

Am I right to suspect the problem may have to do with my throttle body?
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Idle air control valve. It's bad.
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Old 11-13-2014, 02:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graphicjunkie View Post
Idle air control valve. It's bad.
Okay, can you please explain your answer? I want to understand why you think it's bad. And what can I do to test it?
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Personal experience. Had it happen on my old CRX, and my old Volvo.
If the valve is bad, the idle will surge up and down just like you say. The IAC is what the computer uses to set your idle.
There should be a code related to it.

TYPICALLY To bench test, these are the correct specs... disconnect the IAC from the Zuk.

using multimeter : positive lead on signal wire, negative on other wire.

-7ohms or 13+ ohms and it's bad.

You can also try to clean it. Using CARB CLEANER (DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER!!) you can hose the crap out of both the inlet and the outlet. Wiping them out really good. A lot of carbon accumulates in there.

Could be bad computer too.
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Old 11-13-2014, 03:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Here ya go!

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...00c15280088261
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm hoping the computer isn't the culprit here. I'll try testing the IAC either today or tomorrow and post back the results. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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12 code shows ecu is ok, i'm betting the IAC valve is either bad, or blocked. if you clean it and the problem reappears after a couple of days, then start hunting for a new one.
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