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Old 10-09-2014, 11:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine rebuild

Finally got my Zuk running good with a new Weber, but still got a rattle in the motor. Doesn't sound like it's in the top end, so I thought it was piston slap, but it doesn't get any better when it gets hot. May even get a little worse.
My cousin had one that had a broken piston skirt. He said it ran good but rattled bad.
"Supposedly" has only 30K on a rebuild, has good compression, doesn't use oil, so I'm trying to decide if I should tear it down myself and see what the issue is, or buy a new rebuilt from someone.
I've done plenty of work on everything outside a motor, but never been inside one so I need a good source to learn from if I try to do it myself.
Any ideas on where to go to learn?
Or any other ideas on what the problem might be?
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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define "rattle", is it at the front? rear? top, bottom? is it a rattle? a slap? or a knock?
without hearing it, its going to be difficult to tell if its a problem brewing, or a normal noise that you don't need to worry about.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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sound comes from mid-engine.
Doesn't sound like valve noise which I would call a clatter.
I even ran it with the valve cover off and it's not top end.
When I say "rattle" It's between a "rattle and "knock, but doesn't sound like a rod or main bearing.
Definitely not a "normal" noise. I have enough experience in an engine compartment to know that. Unless there's something I'm really missing, I'm 99% sure it's got to come apart.
I've about convinced myself to put in a new rebuilt and tear this one apart when I'm not pressed for time.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Try pulling plug wires one at a time and see if you can isolate the cylinder. Without ignition the cylinder pressure won't be there and knock might get quieter.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texas 87sami View Post
Try pulling plug wires one at a time and see if you can isolate the cylinder. Without ignition the cylinder pressure won't be there and knock might get quieter.
thats the quickest way to kill a coil or the ECU, ALWAYS have a plug in place with the threaded part grounded, even if its out of the block. If you crank the engine with an HT lea disconnected, the high voltage spikes produced with an open circuited secondary can kill the coil, or in some cases the low voltage driver transisters in the ignition module or the ECU itself.

I learned this the hard way, and it was an expensive fix.
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1971 V8 HG Holden with 383 stroker 9" torq lok and TH350 trans (the toy)
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the 2013 3 dr GV is now the off road only toy

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