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Old 08-14-2019, 07:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Jack it in....................formation.

I am using a trolley jack.
I don't have a 4x4 Ignis so my question is as far as the rear is concerned on my 2017 do I do as it seems to indicate in the book of words and lift it on what looks like the towing eye?
I have not tried it yet but as it is nowhere near the centre line surely it won't lift the back end up equally on both sides.

As for the front, getting the trolley jack under there is a game let alone pumping up the handle. Has anyone got a solution because the book of words seems to think I can get a floor jack in there.

I will confess my trolley jacks have seen their use on big 4x4s so rolling one under has never been a problem.
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Old 08-14-2019, 01:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you need a "low profile" jack to get in there, standard ones are a pain to get to fit and almost impossible.
Jack under the suspension points, such as a link rod or a shock mount or under a spring. Do not try and lift the whole car in one go, bad practice on these things as there is no really solid central jacking point at each end. Lift a corner at a time.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
you need a "low profile" jack to get in there, standard ones are a pain to get to fit and almost impossible.
Jack under the suspension points, such as a link rod or a shock mount or under a spring. Do not try and lift the whole car in one go, bad practice on these things as there is no really solid central jacking point at each end. Lift a corner at a time.
What I found was that the jack would not reach the jacking point at the front (crossmember) as it shows in the book even when I got it under there. I have seen long reach low jacks in workshops but never owned one.

There is a crossmember at the back which I used to lift both wheels for a try out.
In the book I was looking at what is a diff for the 4x4 which it says to use but didn't appreciate it was particular for the 4x4 and the cross member on a 2WD is not the same sort of proposition.

Book also points to the towing eye at the back and I was not happy to try that being well off centre, then it began to pour down with rain - rain stop play.

For years I used my ramps until one time a few years back I drove my Mitsubishi Junior straight off and just missed a brick wall. Now ramps almost frighten me.

Even this one needs a 17cm clearance and I am going to check to see if it will go under weather permitting.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181172807071?ul_noapp=true
Also there is a rubber deflector on the bottom valance which gets in the way and needs to come off.

This one looks to be even higher.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic...w/123858193836
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Lovely!!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-210...cAAOSwNkJZ~Ji5
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Old 08-14-2019, 07:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Get some bits of wooden plank and drive it onto those - simples and cheap. I have an old car hoist with a hump between the posts in my shed. When lowering a car that does not start, wooden planks and blocks make a ramp to lower it onto a temp ramp to allow gravity to roll it out of the shed. Same cheap principle will help you get a standard floor jack under if you drive onto some planks, at least for the drive wheels.
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000IGNIS View Post
Get some bits of wooden plank and drive it onto those - simples and cheap.
Yes I am working on those lines
I think I am going to go plastique. Nice and light and effective. My steel ramps just weigh too much these days.
What height to get is what I need to decide.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Dut...p/223329553188

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Dut...t/333073320160
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helijohn View Post
I'd be leaning towards this over the other, but wood off-cuts could be free?

Anyways, you wanna be considering how high they are and if you can slide the tall end under the car to reverse up onto them to allow the jack unobstructed access under the Sill?
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000IGNIS View Post
I'd be leaning towards this over the other,
I am going to try these as they are not as high as my steel ones and if I drop off should still be clear plus they are fairly inexpensive. The Amazon write ups are pretty positive which helps.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161918-2P...72.m2749.l2649
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Lazy, jack and axle stands......can't check suspension off ramps.....
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1971 V8 HG Holden with 383 stroker 9" torq lok and TH350 trans (the toy)
Mitzi RVR 2.0 (not one of my better buys)
the 2013 3 dr GV is now the off road only toy

"Dogs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark violently at nothing right in your ear."
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
Lazy, jack and axle stands......can't check suspension off ramps.....
Once up on ramps if I need to to I can get the trolley jack for more lift - that especially applies at the front. My T/jacks are high lift 3+ tonnes. It is really the front that started me off on this but lightweight ramps sound appealing.
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