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Old 07-22-2019, 04:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default No check engine light and scanner shows P0010

Hi, I'm new here and I'm from Denmark.
I have a problem with my Ignis from 2006.
First off, for some days ago when i cranked the engine, it would run up to 2500'ish RPM's and then fall down slowly, it sounds like i was putting weight on the throttle pedal, but i didn't touch it.
Now it cranks normal, but it goes to really low RPM's when i start the engine, yesterday it also stalled when stopped at a red light.
When i pull the codes on the scanner, it gives me a "P0010" code, P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
The check engine light doesn't illuminate, so i will check the bulb in the dash.

When i look on youtube, i see that it's a solenoid, but i can't find the part here in Denmark.
Can anyone tell me where to locate the part in the engine?

Thanks in advance.
Patrick.
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Which engine do you have?

Also, have you recently jump-started, or replaced or disconnected the battery?
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh sorry, it's a 2006 VVT petrol motor, it says 1,3 L 2 Wd.

I just bought the car used for 2 weeks since. I haven't had the battery disconnected, but i pulled the fuse inside the car, as i wanted to adjust the clock in the information display. I have an aftermarked radio, so i can't adjust it manually on the buttons.

Just changed the oil and filter today, hoping that it may resolve some of the issues.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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A temporary power disruption (battery or the appropriate fuse pulled as well) can cause the computer to then switch to default mode settings and thus the vehicle will need to be driven and "re-learn" (re-program) itself.

Try giving the vehicle time to adjust in other words. Several days / cycles normally works.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you very much.
I will try to give it some time and see if the idle will get better.
I think the "Check Engine Light" bulb is either blown or missing. It doesn't even light up when i turn the key to "On" position.

When i get back from vacation, I will open up the dash and see.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
"Check Engine Light" bulb is either blown or missing
Often a used vehicle selling trick to hide a fault and / or throw off Inspection personnel.

Let's hope for the best.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:29 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I hope not.

It just passed what we call "Syn", I think that what's called a "MOT" in UK, it's an inspection of the car, emission test and so on the day before i got it. Only thing that needed to be changed was the license plate light and the battery had to be correctly strapped in.

Maybe the dealer disconnected the battery when strapping it on?

I'll give it some days and I'll report back. Thank you very much for replying.
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Old 07-22-2019, 03:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sorry to be so sceptical, but the problem is "Dealer". I suspect the car was traded as it had a fault. It might be in Limp Mode, but might not be.

The dash is really easy to remove the cluster with 6 screws (2 under top in front, 4 for cluster) and I think 1 or 2 plugs you have to reach in behind to unclip.

Also check for air leak on intake, Idle Air Motor, and carbon build-up in throttle body and manifold where Idle Air Motor is.
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Old 07-22-2019, 03:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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OR, since you just bought it at the dealer, return to said dealer with a NO CEL complaint...

If the bulb is burnt or removed, that is a failure of the "Inspection" and/or fraud...

I would suggest not fiddling till this is addressed...

... Philip
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Old 07-22-2019, 04:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquanaut20 View Post
OR, since you just bought it at the dealer, return to said dealer with a NO CEL complaint...

If the bulb is burnt or removed, that is a failure of the "Inspection" and/or fraud...

I would suggest not fiddling till this is addressed...

... Philip
Dealer can say "That's the way it was traded!" as a defense - is there proof otherwise?

Inspector can defend "no fault light visible" as taking reasonable step during an inspection, and is an engine fault light a safety critical item if the engine is running fine at the time?

The Sceptick in me says the Dealer is the A-hole, but how do we prove fraud, given the above? In the end, without a "whistle blower", it's buyer employs Due Diligence and Buyer Beware before signing on the line for the sale!
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