07-24-2013, 08:28 PM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: PR, USA
For the battery light:
Check that the alternator belt is not loose or excessively worn. Replace if missing, defective or frayed.
Check that the battery terminals are clean and the connections tight.
Obtain a 12v test light and hook up the clip lead to ground.
With the engine off, probe the alternator "Batt" terminal. It is a red heavy gauge wire and it is connected to the alternator via a ring terminal secured with a nut.
If the tester does not light up, the fuse (or fusible link) on the positive battery terminal is blown.
If there is voltage, turn the key to the ON position (do NOT start the engine) and probe the pink/blue wire at the alternator (it is on a plug along with a brown wire). If the tester does not light, check fuse 2 (red 10A) at the instrument panel fuse box at the left end of the dash.
If all tests check out good, you need to measure the voltage at the battery with a multimeter or voltmeter. Check and remember the voltage with engine off and then engine on with headlights and A/C blower on high. Voltage should be significantly higher with the engine running, regardless of accessories running. If the voltage is the same or lower with the engine running, it is safe to assume the alternator is bad. Have it tested at a shop just in case.
For the brake light:
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If the level is correct, that emergency brake switch might have gone bad (stuck) or its wiring shorted to ground.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Good luck.