Make sure the battery is good and the battery terminals are connected and tight. Hey, it happens! Mine had a main fuse directly on the positive battery terminal that fed the alternator, which is why I mentioned to check the cable for fusible links.
The 30A fuse marked IGN-1 in the engine compartment fuse box is the one that goes to the ignition switch and feeds all those dead fuses you mentioned.
You mentioned all the fuses were good, so you need to pull this fuse, get a test light and probe the fuse box contacts. One of the contacts should have battery voltage, as it's connected directly to the battery.
If you have no voltage at either contact, you need to repair the open circuit within that fuse box.
If you do have voltage at one of the contacts, test the fuse for continuity. If the fuse is good, reinstall it and the next step is to verify you have voltage at the ignition switch.
The ignition switch has 2 red wires which should have battery voltage at all times. One red wire is fed by the IGN-1 fuse, the other by the IGN-2 fuse. Probe each and verify there is voltage. If there is none, and the IGN-2 fuse is good, you must repair the open circuit between IGN-1 and the ignition switch.
If there is voltage, turn the ignition switch to the ON position and probe the pink wire at the switch.
No voltage at pink and voltage at red? Bad ignition switch.
Voltage at pink? Repair the open circuit between the pink wire and the dash side fuse box.
Sure hope it's that fuse!