I'm sure you all have heard this a hundred times. My daughters car is throwing codes p2106 and p2138, throttle actuator control system- forced limited power, and throttle pedal position sensor/switch D/E voltage correlation. I have replaced both the throttle pedal assy and the complete throttle body. Ofcourse it loses power and you have to pull over and reset the throttle system. I have talked to Suzuki in California and local dealers. They know these cars have electronic wiring problems. Now the thing revs up to 7000 rpm going down the road. The car doesn't speed up it just races to 7000 once or twice then goes back to normal. Any info would be greatly apprecciated, thanx Daveg
I too am curious as to how to fix this. I have a 07 Forenza. I replaced the accelerator pedal and it was fine for a little while (5 daysish) and then it crapped out again. I bought a throttle body to replace the throttle position sensor next. It's still in the mail so hopefully it gets here tomorrow. Today I got electrical cleaner and cleaned the connections to the ECM. I had also cleaned the connections to the pedal position sensor when I replaced the pedal. I've looked all over the internet on how to fix this issue but have yet to find anything solid. I can drive the car for about 2 hours w/o any issues and then it'll go into limp mode. I turn the car off and then on and its back to 4 cylinders again. I usually shift into a lower gear if I'm going uphill for a little extra power but can't top 65 MPH. I bought a code scanner today and cleared the codes that way instead of disconnecting the batt cable. I also cleaned the connection for the TPS on the throttle body.
Sparda, my daughters '08 is back at the dealer, they replaced the ECU or ECM what ever you want to call it. NO GOOD, she didn't get 10 miles from the dealer and it went into limp mode and lost power. I to have replaced the pedal assy, complete throttle body as on the '08 you can,t replace the TPS only. I have cleaned ALL connections,ALL body grounds, you name it,s been cleaned and checked for bad connections and corrosion. At least we found a Suzuki dealer that is staying with us trying to find the problem. As soon as we get the car back and find out what it was, THAT IS IF THEY FIND IT, I will be posting what the problem is or was. Later guys
I got my throttle body in the mail today. It was a used part since i didnt know for sure if this was the fix. I cleaned it up with carb cleaner and with a steel wire brush i cleaned the contacts in the plug as well. I also used electrical cleaner to clean the contacts again. Cleaned out the contacts in the plugs for the ECM. After using the cleaner I used a air compressor to make sure they were completely dry. Cleaned the air intake sensor thats located in the tubing running between the air filter box and the throttle. Used electrical cleaner and carb cleaner, using the air compressor to dry it after. I cleaned no plugs inside the car, but i did make sure that everything was connected correctly by making sure they were all pushed in. This weekend I picked up a craftsman obd2 scanner tool and cleared the codes with it instead of doing the usual disconnect of the battery cable. After all was said and done I took it out for a drive and it's worked so far. I drove for a little over an hour, all highway. I pushed it to 80 and went through the gears slow at first and then faster as I let the engine clean itself out a little. I just got back from afghanistan and had the car in storage for 10 months but the problem happened 2 days before I left so just now getting to it. It picks up great, runs smooth, and I had no issue running and gunning it. I brought the scanner tool with me just in case. It has a live feed option that shows data as you drive and can record. It also picks up freeze frames when the code comes on. Fortunately I didn't have to use it as the check engine light didnt go off. Hope this sorta helps and I'll post back if it continues to work. So far I've only spent 140 trying to fix this, 70 for the pedal and 70 for the used throttle body. I did the replacements so no labor costs.
Well the issue arose again after running fine since my last post. It threw the code 3 times today. But I had my code scanner with me so just cleared them as i was driving. I did find with the scanner the actual D/E correlation issue. I had the car idling and the D was 10.2 and E 5.1 at normal operation. When it threw the code, the car was simply in idle and the D was 10.2 again but the E was jumping around. It slowly but surely climbed up to 8.8 while the D stayed at the constant 10.2. This being the case, I need to figure out why the voltage is changing on the E and not the D. Bad wiring or the ECU. I've replaced the pedal with a new one and the throttle body with a used one tested working. I have no idea what to really check for now and don't have the time this weekend to check, but was curious to find out if the dealer finally found the issue.
Well after they replaced the ECU it had thrown the codes and she lost power, we took it back, they had it for over 2 weeks, and put a whopping 59 miles on it, of course they had no problems, and so far in the last 3 weeks we had had NO problems with it, but now that I said that the damn thing will more than likely start screwing up again, MAYBE the ECU was the problem who knows bud, wish you luck, oh ya, they had to get some special grease to put into the connectors, I use an industial grade electrical grease (dielectric) myself on all my car and motorcycle connectors, you may try cleaning ALL the body grounds if you haven't already, again good luck..
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.