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Tps/ Throttle Body Problems

109K views 47 replies 30 participants last post by  JSHerron437 
#1 ·
Please help!!! I have a 2006 Forenza. Starting at 37,000m my check engine light came on and read as the TPS or throttle position sensor. Unfortunately replacing the sensor is not possible on this model, the entire throttle body has to be replaced... It runs very rough and loud. After startup it acts as if it has timing issues and also when driving generally between 55 and 70mph. I've had the throttle body cleaned twice. After the first time, it drove smooth and quiet for about 3 weeks then the light came back on and became loud and rough again. After the second, it only lasted about a day. Has anyone else experienced any issues like these? Any suggestions?
 
#3 ·
wow Ive been the exact same problem and cant find out and the dealership said i gotta pay *) bux for a diagnostic check first but autozone said it look to be the tps...but u explaind the problem to a t.
I bought a throttle body for a '07 Reno at a salvage yard. It was very difficult to locate this part at a salvage yard, but I found one in a nearby state and had it shipped. Cost me about 100.00. It has since fixed the problem, I'm sure I will eventually need to replace this one as well due to the car not conbusting properly. At least so I've been told by a once Daewoo mechanic. Hopefully this will help. Throttle bodies are way expensive for this car They quoted me like 480.00 before labor. It was really easy to change out myself, just a couple of bolts and some hose clamps. The newest issue with my car is the strutts are out already and ripped up my brand new 90.00 tires... This car is a piece!!!! I will never ever buy another Suzuki!
 
#5 ·
They sell one that does not work on the Forenza. I bought it and went to put it on and it's a completely different part. You have to completely replace the throttle body on the '06. It's DUMB!!! The sensor they sell is like 65.00, throttle body new is like 480.00... REALLY REALLY DUMB!!!! Thanks though...
 
#7 ·
TPS problem

Oh my goodness... I am having the exact same problems. My check engine light came on at 39,000 miles. After trying having the sensors cleaned, I have had both the sensor under the pedal and the throttle assembly replaced. After working for 2 weeks the problem has not only resurfaced, but is worse than ever. I am at a loss as to what to do now. The repair shop that I have been taking it to also doesn't seem to know what to do next. Has anyone been able to fix this problem for the long term?
 
#8 ·
I have had issues with that problem on other vehicles. Factory engineers has found that the throttle position sensor have a grease issue inside when it rotates as pedal is pressed and depressed. The bad problem is that there is a limited amount available that have been rebuilt and updated as a complete unit and would offer the updated component on warranty vehicles. It would be available to everybody by 2009.
 
#9 ·
2006 Suzuki Forenza. This car sucks.

I have the same problem with the TPS sensor on the throtle body. I currently have 50,455 miles on the car. There are actually three TPS sensors in this configuration. One attached to the gas pedal. One attached to the throtle body (defective part). And, one located inside the top of the engine block. The defective TPS sensor is removable with four screws. American Suzuki has to be a pain in the ass by selling it only as part of the entire throtle body.

To contradict what Suzuki Don stated: "All the new cars that are "fly by wire" and have electronic throttles, service the throttle body as a unit for safety reasons." ---- Maybe safety reasons to keep carb cleaner out of the hands of idiots. ---- All new cars are drive by wire but there is no reason to make it mandatory to replace the entire throtle body. It doesn't need cleaning. All the car needs is a new sensor that hasn't shorted. It's another crap GM part. You can find the TPS sensor for the 04-05 at Pep Boys and Autozone, under GM TPS sensor. American Suzuki found a way to rip owners of their cars off one more time. By not making the TPS sensor seperate, you either deal with the car driving like crap or pay almost $600 including labor and taxes to get it fixed. I called American Suzuki and explained my problem and I was told that it is considered """normal maintenance""" WTF? I thought normal maintenance was oil changes, tire rotation, belt inspection, fuel injection service and brake inspection. Once again no help from the company. We all need to ban together and start a Class Action Lawsuit against American Suzuki. Too many problems that are the owner's responsibility. Even if you haven't financed; American Suzuki won't pay for anywork on their leases or smart buy's. And, every junk yard
that I contacted said that even if they received a Suzuki, they wouldn't keep it for long. Making it alot harder to try to find a used throtle body and TPS sensor.

This car has made me so disgusted. Thanks for listening to my rant. Anyone have a solution to this problem? Someone found a magical TPS sensor that fits, for around $65? --- I pray for an answer, besides the obvious one telling me to shell out $600.
 
#10 ·
Throttle Body and O2 sensor??

I have been having the same problem! My car (05 Forenza Wagon) feels like it is stuttering or is going to die out around 50-70 mph when I press or depress the gas pedal to slow down/speed up with traffic. The speedometer shakes back and forth rapidly also when this happens. It also has a rough idle sometimes and will randomly die at stop lights or almost die only to recover and run roughly. If it dies, it starts right back up. My engine light comes on and goes out every now and then and my mechanic said he thinks one of the O2 sensors is bad.

I had the throttle body cleaned last week and it ran smoothly for a few days, no problems at all, only to start back up again this week. The O2 sensor had to be special ordered form the dealership for $160 and is being replaced today. He also said he would clean the throttle body one more time and see if that fixes it.

Hopefully someone will figure this out and let us all know!!
 
#12 ·
If your wagon has been stuttering and stalling, I would check two places for possible vacuum leak. The first one you should check would be a vacuum hose from the throttle body to the valve cover on early models, that hose were zipped tied to a coolant hose which prematurely wore out that hose and slowly creating a hose to where vacuum pressure is lost. The second is located on a clamp where your resonator attaches to the throttle body. Sometimes when "monkey techs" check the condition of the air filters, it can add stress on the clamp and could crack, even tear thous creating a leak. So it can be a hose that can cost a few bucks or a air resonator that around 150.
 
#13 ·
Hi - I'm new on here and know very little about cars mechanically. I found this site when googling for surging issues on my 1999 model Jimny. I am in Australia and it is a great car apart form this. It runs fine, then has bouts of surging then on occassion it stops on me altogether when I'm coming to a stop or go to coast round a corner. Had it at the mechanics for the last 3 days to see if it would do it for them but it didn't of course.

I wrote down all it's symptoms and they said it's possibly the throttle body sensor which would explain all its syptoms which were as I stated above, plus the "check engine" light came on once or twice while still driving and sometimes when I went to change from 1st to 2nd gear it would rev right up to 3 1/2 thousand RPM.

It is getting fixed hopefully next week, so I am really hoping this is the issue........
 
#14 ·
Fixed

My 05 forenza wagon was stalling at stops or when coasting around turns (not all the time of course, just when it felt like it). Sometimes it wouldn't die all the way but the rpm's would drop way down and then it would recover and shake a bit. On the freeway the speedometer would fluctuate back and forth sometimes and you could feel the engine stutter. Then, the car started making a weird ticking noise at start up and then sometimes while driving. I took it to my mechanic who cleaned the throttle body and told me most likely it was a bad o2 sensor. It seemed to be better after the throttle body cleaning but about two weeks later it started up again. I finally took it to the dealership and they determined that I had a head gasket cover that was leaking which was flooding my spark plug tubes with oil. They replaced the head gasket cover under warranty and now the car runs great!
 
#16 ·
Hi again - I have since sold my car but when I asked about the problem to an old work mate I ran into - who was service manager at a multi caar dealership - he said straight away "Oh yes - they had a problem with the wiring harness that goes around the back of the crank angle sensor"

Needless to say I didn't know whether to laugh or cry - as I loved the car but thought it was unsafe for me and my 5 year old son.

SO ANNOYING!!

But it is an interesting topic and I hope this enlightens and helps someone!
 
#17 ·
You guys COULD possibly have too much oil and gunk coming out of the breather hose thus dirtying the throttle body and the sensor. Maybe try cleaning the throttle body and plugging the whole on the intake where the breather hose would normally go. (that way your basically eliminating any dirt and grime going to the throttle body)
 
#18 ·
Fixed!!!

Finally took the car to the dealership and it turns out the valve covers were loose/warped and allowing oil to flood the spark plug tubes which was causing the car to stall. They replaced the valve covers and I have not had this problem at all since!! no more rough idle, no more rpm's dropping, and best of all no more stalling. It was also covered under warranty!!
 
#20 ·
It's really simple to change the throttle body. Took maybe 20 mins. If you search online you can find a good diagram. I found a used one for about $100 at a salvage yard. I couldn't find one in state so i started searching surrounding. They charged $90 for the part and $10 for shipping. Put the throttle body on myself, saved labor costs. It seemed to correct the problem. I have stopped using gas with ethanol, even though it says it's ok for the 2006 model. I have also stopped fueling at the lower grade gas stations. I try to stick with Shell now, used to be nothin but 7-11. My strutts went out about 6 mos ago. Tryin to work on that issue. I had 54k on my car then... Shouldn't have gone out. Ripped threw my brand new hancooks at $95 a pop. I have to say...

I HATE THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's been nothin but a money pit! Had to replace the power steering sensor twice and is now needing a third. Dealership is nothin but a pain in the ass. My check engine light is on again. So I may be back with a whole new set of issues in the near future...

Thanks to all that have responded and shared!!!
 
#21 ·
There are several reasons to the car running badly. One is that the excessive oil is being pushed into the throttlebody due to a bad pcvvalve (built into the cover). There are ecm reflashes, bad cam sensor, even coolant and/or oil leaking into the #3,#4 cylinders. so its good to know the code if any to start
 
#22 ·
For those having TPS issues, here is a diagram and description of it's function, etc. (Taken from ALLDATAdiy.com) Keep in mind, on '06 (and later, I believe), if the TPS is your problem, the entire throttle body must be replaced. Just had to have it done on my '06 Forenza.



Circuit Description
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor incorporates 2 TP sensors into one housing. TP sensor 1 and TP sensor 2 each have a 5 volt reference circuit supplied by the ECM. The ECM supplies each TP sensor with a low reference circuit. Each TP sensor supplies the ECM with a signal voltage that is proportional to the throttle plate position. The TP signal voltages are opposite from one another. TP sensor 1 is pulled up to reference voltage as the throttle plate is opened. The TP sensor 2 is pulled down to low reference as the throttle plate is opened.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

* Ignition ON.
* Difference between normalized values of TPS1 and TPS2 is greater than expected for a certain period of time.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

* The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will illuminate.
* The ECM will record operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fail. This information will be stored in the Freeze Frame and Failure Records buffers.
* A history DTC is stored.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

* The MIL will turn OFF after four consecutive validation cycle in which the diagnostic runs without a fault.
* A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm up cycles without a fault.
* The DTC(s) can be cleared by using the scan tool.

Diagnostic Aids

* Inspect the ECM connectors for signs of water intrusion. When water intrusion occurs, multiple DTCs could be set with no DTC circuit or component conditions found during diagnostic testing.
* When the ECM detects a condition within the TAC system, more than 1 TAC system related DTC may set. This is due to the many redundant tests that run continuously on this system. Locating and repairing 1 individual condition may correct more than 1 DTC. Disconnecting components during testing may set additional DTCs. Keep this in mind when reviewing the Capture Info.
 
#23 ·
Stick with Shell gasoline only.

Clean the throtle body and grease the TPS connection located on the throtle body. You can do a Fuel Injector Service if you think it might help. Then, just stick with Shell gasoline until you trade in your car. I know it's strange, but I haven't had a check engine light on since. It just makes the process of getting gas a little more difficult then it shoud be. :D
 
#24 ·
Throttle Body

I have been talking to some Mechanics and they are stating it is from the hose - its spitting oil into the throttle body. So even if you get it fixed there is a possibility that its only temporarily. Many and I mean many people hare having this problem. I heard Suzuki keeps claiming its "normal wear and tear” so it doesn’t count for the warranty. When I brought my car to the shop all they did was clean the sensors and clear the codes. That is Suzuki’s way of fixing the problem. The people I have talked to said that it is defect, yet the won’t place a recall. I would like those who are having this problem to email me. I would like to discuss some this further.
 
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