09-04-2017, 09:14 AM
Join Date: Sep 2017
How to Replace A/C Clutch coil on 2005 Forenza
Here is my experience and I hope it helps somebody, down the road.
How to replace the A/C clutch coil on a 2005 Suzuki Forenza.
Pay somebody to do it.
First, verify that the coil is bad, a good coil will have a very low resistance ~ 6 ohms A bad one will most likely be open. You can also check that the relay is closing by removing it and reinstalling it. (Car should be running for this test) If the A/C driver detects all inputs are correct, the relay will click as you install it. You can also check for 12Vdc at the connector. It’s a two wire connector so the Black is ground and the Green stripe is the 12Vdc.
Now that you have determined that the coil is bad, you need to find a good one. In my area AutoZone was the only parts store to even list it. Not in-store but available in like 2 hours from a local hub. At under $30 it was a no brainer.
When you stop in at the store to pick up the part, you might as well go ahead and loan every tool they have that is even remotely related to A/C repair. Well almost. You will for sure need at least two of their kits. One has the two jaw puller for the pulley and the other has the remover and installer for the clutch. I would recommend you also get a 2 or 3 jaw puller that has flat tangs to get behind the coil. They also have a special tool to hold the clutch in place while you loosen the nut. (I couldn’t make this work for me but you might have better luck?)
Speaking of tools, here is a list of what you are going to need:
a) Complete set of ¼” drive metric sockets, ratchet and T-handle
b) Complete set of metric wrenches
c) 8” adjustable wrench
d) Small pry bar or larger flathead screwdriver
e) Stubby and 6” phillips screwdrivers
f) Small (ball peen ) hammer.
g) 4” long ¼’ socket extension
h) C clip pliers with straight and offset ends.
i) A light crayon or chalk. (Something to make a mark with )
j) Feeler gauges
Start by raising the passenger front as far as you safely can. Use emergency brake and block tires. Remove the passenger front tire. Remove every black piece of plastic you can find in this area. There are various fasteners, nuts, pushlocks and screws to keep track of. Start with the air cleaner filter and filter housing. Continue on to the splash guard inside the wheel well, the splash guard under the radiator and the moisture separator box with the snorkel. (I missed that one until much later) After removing all this stuff you will have a nice unobstructed view of the A/C compressor. Disconnect the clutch coil wiring connector.
Remove the serpentine belt. Use an appropriate sized wrench to turn the autoadjuster clockwise to release the tension on the belt. Slide belt off the A/C pulley.
Check pulley for play and unusual noises from the bearing. The pulley should spin freely, but not TOO freely.
Remove nut that is securing the clutch in place. This is where the special tool is supposed to be handy. I was not able to use the tool because the aforementioned separator box was still in my way. I was able to remove the nut by gently striking the handle of the socket wrench while holding the clutch in place with my other hand. Using the appropriate remover tool set, remove the clutch. There may be shims (washers) inside the clutch post but I didn’t find any in mine. Note: There was a key on mine that stayed with the clutch.
Remove the C-clip that is holding the pulley in place. This was a pain for me because of the separator box. The straight nosed C-clip tool would probably work better than the offset one. Using the special A/C pulley 2 jaw puller, remove the pulley. Note: there is an insert that fits into post on the A/C compressor and greatly improves success in removing the pulley.
Once you have the pulley removed you can remove the coil. Before you remove it, mark where the connector lines up on the compressor. There are a number of places that the connector can go and only one of them works with your wiring harness. I’m sure there is a tool for the actual coil removal, but I didn’t have it. A flat tang, 2 or 3 jaw puller might work. I ended up using a large flat screwdriver and slowly, carefully pried back and forth from side to side until it popped off. There are hard points on the compressor that I swear are for doing just this.
Reverse the process to reinstall everything.
I’m sure there’s a tool for reinstalling the coil, but I couldn’t find it. I ended up using a 4” long ¼” extension and carefully tapped on the metal inner ring of the coil. If you have a set of large sockets, you might find one that would work for this. Make sure to orient the connector before you start the tapping process. Use EXTREME caution that you don’t hit the actual coil. Work all around, a little at a time. The coil seats flat against the compressor so you just keep going until you feel it hit bottom. Note: This is when I finally removed the separator box.
Reinstall the pulley. This goes far enough to allow you to install the C-clip.
Reinstall the clutch. There is a tool for this in the kit. Once you get close to the pulley face, start checking the gap with the feeler gauges. There is a spec for this but I wasn’t able to find it. I just kept adjusting until clutch just touched the pulley, and then I backed it off a few thousands.
Install the nut. Again I just tapped the socket wrench a few times to seat it.
Connect the clutch coil wiring connector to the coil.
Reinstall the serpentine belt.
If you feel safe, you can start the car and see if the A/C clutch will now engage. Mine did and I let out a few happy WOOPS. Turn off car.
Reinstall all the plastic parts in reverse order. Separator box, wheel well splash, radiator splash, air filter housing, air filter and cover.
Install tire and lower car.
If you hadn’t tested it earlier, you should do so now. Hopefully your A/C is now working and you are enjoying the cool air.