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Old 12-24-2016, 07:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 07 Suzuki Forenza wont start

Ok have an issue. My timing belt slipping a tooth coming home 1 mile from my house was basically in idle. Idler pulley had gotten loose. We tried to remove serpetine belt to get it home wouldnt start. Went ahead replaced timing belt water pump all pulleys as well as serpentine belt pulleys and ps pump. Head had 2 valves bent so it was replaced.

Not getting any compression now car still wont start valves stuck open. Did leakdown engine is good. Cams are good. All timing is good CS Sensor is good. What could be going on here. It seemed to not start when the serpentine belt was cut but i dont think that would have anything to do with that. It should still turn over. Want my forenza back any help would be appreciated.
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Apparently, your valve timing is off based on what I'm reading here.
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Old 12-24-2016, 08:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Timing marks r good. What is valve timing being off how do u correct that.
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Not getting any compression now car still wont start valves stuck open. Did leakdown engine is good. Cams are good. All timing is good CS Sensor is good. What could be going on here. It seemed to not start when the serpentine belt was cut but i dont think that would have anything to do with that. It should still turn over. Want my forenza back any help would be appreciated.
If you completed a leakdown, and the valves are good.. you should get a compression reading..

Not starting is another story, for start you need compression, fuel and spark.

Your reference to "It should still turn over" might be the incorrect terminology for cranks, no start

The installation/or not of the serpentine belt, has no bearing on the ability to start..

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Old 12-25-2016, 08:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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We did a leakdown had compression in all four cylinders. Sounds like the valves r stuck open. When the belt slipped it would still start up we didn't know what it was so we cut the serpentine belt cause we though it was the PS pulley failing the moment we did that it wouldn't start I don't know if that had any bearing on the car not starting. It should still start. I hope my engine is not toast. It was perfectly fine when the belt slipped. But if I'm getting compression it should still start.
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Old 12-25-2016, 03:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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We did a leakdown had compression in all four cylinders. Sounds like the valves r stuck open.
You are not making sense! If valves stuck open, you would not have compression...

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Old 12-25-2016, 10:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I guess I explained it wrong. No compression on the test valves open. Could the valve guides be too tight. The guy who did the valve job is coming to look at it. Could a valve be bent while putting on the head. Thinking the head is gonna have to come off.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I guess I explained it wrong. No compression on the test valves open. Could the valve guides be too tight. The guy who did the valve job is coming to look at it. Could a valve be bent while putting on the head. Thinking the head is gonna have to come off.
If the timing was not set right, you could very well have kissed the valve again..

When repairing head or timing, best to hand turn engine to verify clearances..

Now is the time to do a proper leakdown to verify valves..not cranking for compression test..

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Old 12-27-2016, 08:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well it looks like the piston rings r shot. Would hold compression for a little bit when cranked. Looks like I need a new engine. 210000 miles. Mechanic said if the head hit the ring just right and it has carbon buildup that can happen. The engine rebuild kit costs like 300. He said he s not gonna charge me labor just the parts. So I guess 300 plus the original head gasket kit 500 for a new engine. Better than buying a new car. All other components pretty much r new.
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Old 01-01-2017, 10:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Would hold compression for a little bit when cranked.
It may be a language / communication problem with your comments in general, or you are a bit out of your element with regards to engine diagnostics.

The latest case in point is your compression testing procedure. The correct test gauge will capture and hold the highest setting achievable over several revolutions of cranking. Period. So your method is flawed or terminology wrongly communicated.

Compression within the engine WILL bleed off, even it the most perfect of engine conditions! The AMOUNT of leakage is what determines the degree of degradation (leak down) as to the sealing capability of the rings, cylinder bores and valves seating.
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