So I have an '05 Forenza wagon, 28k miles, manual. Since I bought it with 3800 miles on it, it has had problems coming to an idle when coming to a stop. The RPM's drop past the usual idle of 900 - 1000, and often drop so low (below the 200 mark) that the engine shudders and the lights dim. The car has never died, but it's come close.
I had the high-idle problem early on, and had the re-flash done. That took care of the high idle (although it did it a few times after), but it has always had this issue when the RPM's wind down.
It's probably 60% of the time that it will do it. Hot or cold, it still does it. It's done it at high altitude and at 2000 feet. It will do it if I hold the clutch in, or put it in neutral. I can't pin down anything, and the car has NEVER thrown a code.
I've had the car in 6 times for this issue - and of course it doesn't do it during the 10 min. test drive by the mechanic. They won't do anything until they physically see the problem happen. I called Suzuki Customer Service, and got them to authorize a loaner for next week, so hopefully the mechanic will experience it.
Have you guys seen this at all? Any suggestions on where to look? Suzuki won't do anything until they can recreate the problem, but once they do, they're not going to know any more about it than the details I've given them. I've been to 3 different dealerships, and I know this isn't a Suzuki-designed car, but I'm not so far impressed by how Suzuki handles a problem. Every time I have a day off, I arrange to give up my car for the day... and nothing results.
High idle complaint is the only one I have seen, never a low idle.
You may have to hunt for a Suzuki shop with a really experienced tech who will know to bump up the idle stop on the throttle body if the usual diagnostics find nothing. The tech may want to consult with Suzuki Techline 1st though.
Has the throttle body been replaced?
Our 1st line of attack ( after verifying complaint ) is to reflash and if that fails we replace throttle body. There is a very very remote chance that your wiring harness that runs inside the left front fender well could have chaffing, but I don't know if any of those wires relate to engine controls.
While not a Forenza, My Reno has that problem to the point that when I push the breaks turn and puss the clutch in at the same time it stalls.
I like the high idle problem, It makes a quick jump off the line more fun.
The idle drop I think is a electric problem, Almost like the alternator is too small to power the engine under high electric drain times. WOW i got lost on that one. Help me out tech guys, You know what Iím talking about.
first off did you get a lightened set of pulies? if so that might be your prob. i had a similar idle problem in my old honda. it could posibly be an ajustment on the throttle body or even a small vacume leak on one of the lines leading to or from the throttle body. this is a common prob when cars get older not so much on newer ones, a quick adjusment might be the fix.
I would say your problem may have something to do with your alternator. I know when i had my other car, it would do that, my lights would dim, and want to stall. I took it to some places and they couldnt find anything wrong. So as it got worse and things began to flicker, my radio going off and resetting, and my rpms and speedometor shutting down and all my dash lights going haywire, thats when it started to die. It even drained my battery dry and had to get a new one with the new alternator. I would check into that, but it could be something else.
Okay, an update - thanks to all who floated ideas and gave input. They've had the car for 6 days... they did re-create the issue. They cleaned the throttle plate (I think that's what he said), and it has made a big difference in smooth running - in fact, I would recommend this to anyone wanting smooth throttle response. My car had developed a hesitation around 3.5K RPM's, and that's gone now.
BUT - the idle dip is still there sometimes. When it happens, it's not as rough now that the trottle body is clean, but it still falls too low. I can still feel it shake the engine through my braking foot.
So, Melissa called their next suggestion - the alternator. SuzukiDon or SuzukiTech - can you tell me if there's a procedure for bench-testing an alternator? I want to get this resolved.
To answer above questions -- they did relearning procedures, there is no lightened pulley (no engine mods at all yet), and I, too, suspect electrical. TTGoth - try turning on your a/c and rolling windows down, then turn a/c fan to off. Then, while rolling up two windows, turn the fan dial from 0 to 3 or 4. You might get the same thing I got - shaking, straining, raw idle. Might be in the same boat as me, maybe.
Schoolpsych, if you add an extra ground wire from battery to chassis with a large diameter quality ground wire, I think you will notice a major difference. I have done it and so have alot of people here, and trust me, it does make a major difference.
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