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Old 06-15-2015, 03:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation 2006 Forenza will not start. Please help.

Hello all.

I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza that started acting up some time ago. I'd firstly like to apologize for my lacking experience with/knowledge about cars, but I really would like to at least diagnose this problem without paying a mechanic to do it for me.

Starting from the beginning; I had a slight valve cover gasket leak that quickly snowballed into a broken gasket split into six pieces (when I did have the means to repair it). Because the leak was so bad, I had to drain the chambers above my spark plugs (with two rolls of strong paper towels), before I replaced them a few days later. The engine-malfunction light occasionally flashed or came on for a while, but it always left faster than it came. I never got it checked because the computer in this car has.....issues. Accelerating too quickly and sporadically seems to throw off the computer's combustion protocols because the fuel mixture turns horribly lean and the acceleration slows to a crawl. The only way out of this wormhole is to reseat the battery and then, everything's fine. There's a laundry list of issues this car's computer has but it's always run strong, and without complaint. After I changed the spark plugs, I started getting sporadically placed very high idles, occasional rpm jumps despite no additional gas being applied, and some frightening hesitation from the engine. One day, I was heading out of town; and noticed that again that the car was burning WAY more fuel than it should've been, and I had bumpy-feeling, inconsistent acceleration. When I reached my destination, I reseated the battery, and all was well. Until about halfway home or so; the car started not responding to an increase in the gas pedal. It would not move faster than about 65; despite me putting the pedal to the floor (which I had to do given that letting up made it lose speed). Then, it jumped forward in a violent surge, then, died. The check engine light came on, and the rpms began jumping violently between 0 and as high as 3000 (I was going about 65mph at the time). I pulled over and killed the engine, and tried to start again; but got violent rpm surging while just idling so I towed it to my house. Here's what I've done, and what I know:

* The timing belt is intact, has no noticeable slack or weird positioning; despite being due for replacement. I don't think this is the issue.

*I replaced the ignition wires, and the coil pack to no avail.

*When I attempt to start my engine, all I hear is a very high-pitched grinding noise that was the first time accompanied with white smoke. The noise sounds to my ear; like a scratchy electric drill.

*One guy I had look at it said it sounds as though there's no compression in my cylinders. Not sure whether or not that's true.

*The battery is fine, there are no blown fuses, and the fuel should not have been low quality. I only put Chevron gas in this car and I treat the fuel as I see necessary.

I don't think it's a blown head gasket (that was offered up as a suggestion) because there is no indication in the oil of that. I cannot think of anything I know of to be the culprit of this problem. There is no specific code logged in the car's computer of a check engine light; though the computers that have been hooked up to the car do say there IS some serious issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this might be; and how to verify it? Thanks for any help, I GREATLY appreciate it.
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoraxtheimpaler View Post
Hello all.

I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza that started acting up some time ago. I'd firstly like to apologize for my lacking experience with/knowledge about cars, but I really would like to at least diagnose this problem without paying a mechanic to do it for me.

Starting from the beginning; I had a slight valve cover gasket leak that quickly snowballed into a broken gasket split into six pieces (when I did have the means to repair it). Because the leak was so bad, I had to drain the chambers above my spark plugs (with two rolls of strong paper towels), before I replaced them a few days later. The engine-malfunction light occasionally flashed or came on for a while, but it always left faster than it came. I never got it checked because the computer in this car has.....issues. Accelerating too quickly and sporadically seems to throw off the computer's combustion protocols because the fuel mixture turns horribly lean and the acceleration slows to a crawl. The only way out of this wormhole is to reseat the battery and then, everything's fine. There's a laundry list of issues this car's computer has but it's always run strong, and without complaint. After I changed the spark plugs, I started getting sporadically placed very high idles, occasional rpm jumps despite no additional gas being applied, and some frightening hesitation from the engine. One day, I was heading out of town; and noticed that again that the car was burning WAY more fuel than it should've been, and I had bumpy-feeling, inconsistent acceleration. When I reached my destination, I reseated the battery, and all was well. Until about halfway home or so; the car started not responding to an increase in the gas pedal. It would not move faster than about 65; despite me putting the pedal to the floor (which I had to do given that letting up made it lose speed). Then, it jumped forward in a violent surge, then, died. The check engine light came on, and the rpms began jumping violently between 0 and as high as 3000 (I was going about 65mph at the time). I pulled over and killed the engine, and tried to start again; but got violent rpm surging while just idling so I towed it to my house. Here's what I've done, and what I know:

* The timing belt is intact, has no noticeable slack or weird positioning; despite being due for replacement. I don't think this is the issue.

*I replaced the ignition wires, and the coil pack to no avail.

*When I attempt to start my engine, all I hear is a very high-pitched grinding noise that was the first time accompanied with white smoke. The noise sounds to my ear; like a scratchy electric drill.

*One guy I had look at it said it sounds as though there's no compression in my cylinders. Not sure whether or not that's true.

*The battery is fine, there are no blown fuses, and the fuel should not have been low quality. I only put Chevron gas in this car and I treat the fuel as I see necessary.

I don't think it's a blown head gasket (that was offered up as a suggestion) because there is no indication in the oil of that. I cannot think of anything I know of to be the culprit of this problem. There is no specific code logged in the car's computer of a check engine light; though the computers that have been hooked up to the car do say there IS some serious issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what this might be; and how to verify it? Thanks for any help, I GREATLY appreciate it.
Two things come to mind thinking of your car issue(s). The first one is that the engine is turning over rapidly indicating no compression. If this is true, then you either have a broken timing belt or its jumped several teeth. Quick way to find out is, take off the oil filler cap and have someone turn the engine over and look at the camshafts? Do you see them turning? if not, pull the timing belt cover off and investigate as the belt is more than likely broken. If the camshafts are turning, you could still have a timing issue where the belt jumped several teeth. If you had a scope, it would be a simple matter to confirm the timing waveforms of the camshaft sensor and crank sensor. Since you probably don't, pull the timing cover off and confirm the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the two camshaft sprockets. If they are off, then you probably have some bent valves which is going to cost several hundred dollars to repair. If the timing marks look good, then you may want to change the belt while you're there along with the idlers, water pump and tensioner. Otherwise, you'll spend a lot more money later when the belt breaks.

Second issue: Do you have to add coolant to your recovery bottle, yet you don't see any external leak? If so, then you probably have a head gasket issue. You can still have a head gasket issue even when you don't see any milky oil. The leak could be very small at this point and the high combustion temperature is burning the coolant off and thus, not settling into the oil.

You mentioned that the check engine light came on occassionally but would go off and there was never any codes. If you unplug the battery cable, you just erased the code(s). Also, out of curiosity, you mentioned that there wasn't any codes, yet the computer said there were serious issues. Never seen that before on a scanner. Could you elaborate a little what you meant by this?

Good luck on your repair!
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