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Old 07-06-2014, 12:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2006 Forenza lifters

Hi,
I need to replace the head gasket on my daughter's forenza. My question is: do I need to collapse the lifters before I reinstall the cams?
I have never done this in the past to other makes of engines...I read this somewhere and it seemed counter productive, but maybe needed. Hope some knows for sure one way or the other. Thanks in advance!
Sam
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Old 07-06-2014, 02:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check the Service Manual...

https://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...i-forenza.html
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Checked service manual

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Originally Posted by Max View Post

Here is what I found in the service manual: Lubricate the valve tappet adjusters with engine oil.
Install the valve tappet adjusters. Did not mention cleaning or the need to colapse...so I still do not have a definitive answer.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuari Sam View Post
Hi,
I need to replace the head gasket on my daughter's forenza. My question is: do I need to collapse the lifters before I reinstall the cams?
I have never done this in the past to other makes of engines...I read this somewhere and it seemed counter productive, but maybe needed. Hope some knows for sure one way or the other. Thanks in advance!
Sam
Hi Sam... In the old days, you would always hear about pumping up the lifters before you install them. Nowadays, most engines are of the interference type such as your Forenza. When I pulled the head on my Forenza, my machinist stressed the importance of bleeding a small amount of oil out of the lifters. Why? Because when the camshafts are taken out, this will relieve the pressure on the lifters. Then, it's quite possible that the lifter stem(s), could move out slightly. This is where the lifter could actually hold the valve(s) slightly open when you put the head back on and reinstall the camshafts. The mildest case of this scenario is that you will have a misfire(s). The worse case is that you just bent your valves. Is it possible that you could get by without doing this procedure and nothing bad will happen? Yes, but do you want to take the chance? At least I didn't. Just bleed enough oil out of each lifter where the stem will move about 1/16"-1/8". That's all you'll need. When you start the engine, the valves will rattle, but as the lifters are being pumped up, the noise will subside. It will take about 20-30 minutes for the rattling to disappear. If you want to see the procedure for the lifter bleeding and head removal, you can search on YouTube for stuzman52. Good luck on your repair.
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Old 07-11-2014, 03:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Watched some of your vids...nice job

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Originally Posted by stuzman View Post
Hi Sam... In the old days, you would always hear about pumping up the lifters before you install them. Nowadays, most engines are of the interference type such as your Forenza. When I pulled the head on my Forenza, my machinist stressed the importance of bleeding a small amount of oil out of the lifters. Why? Because when the camshafts are taken out, this will relieve the pressure on the lifters. Then, it's quite possible that the lifter stem(s), could move out slightly. This is where the lifter could actually hold the valve(s) slightly open when you put the head back on and reinstall the camshafts. The mildest case of this scenario is that you will have a misfire(s). The worse case is that you just bent your valves. Is it possible that you could get by without doing this procedure and nothing bad will happen? Yes, but do you want to take the chance? At least I didn't. Just bleed enough oil out of each lifter where the stem will move about 1/16"-1/8". That's all you'll need. When you start the engine, the valves will rattle, but as the lifters are being pumped up, the noise will subside. It will take about 20-30 minutes for the rattling to disappear. If you want to see the procedure for the lifter bleeding and head removal, you can search on YouTube for stuzman52. Good luck on your repair.
What i did was turned an insert punch with a stop sholder, an insert to place in the underside of the tappet to depress them about .050". Used it with an arbor press. Worked well.

I ran into the same problem you did for the EGR adaptor gasket. I watched a couple of you vids and caught your disdain with the same issue. Was not ready to throw down a hundred bucks for a six dollar gasket. I machined a steel insert to fit the bore opening in the block. It has a flange and a O ring on both sides of the flange. I am using a felpro gasket for the main body as it is identical, less the drop with the rubber insert. When I get the time I will start a new thread with pictures and an update to the performance of my work around. I may manufacture these and offer them for sale as a replacement kit.

Thank you,
Sam
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuari Sam View Post
What i did was turned an insert punch with a stop sholder, an insert to place in the underside of the tappet to depress them about .050". Used it with an arbor press. Worked well.

I ran into the same problem you did for the EGR adaptor gasket. I watched a couple of you vids and caught your disdain with the same issue. Was not ready to throw down a hundred bucks for a six dollar gasket. I machined a steel insert to fit the bore opening in the block. It has a flange and a O ring on both sides of the flange. I am using a felpro gasket for the main body as it is identical, less the drop with the rubber insert. When I get the time I will start a new thread with pictures and an update to the performance of my work around. I may manufacture these and offer them for sale as a replacement kit.

Thank you,
Sam
Glad to hear that you got it all worked out and that you found a way around the EGR gasket. It sounds like you have some machinist skills which is always a good thing in saving money. Looking forward to seeing your photos and guess you got the car running now.
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