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So, I've got a 1999 suzuki swift, I've been working on this for 6 yrs now and I'm very familiar with the basics and advanced mechanics, the car has a 1.3L g13b sohc 16v distributorless ignition mpfi engine and what's happening is that, its starts up fine no long cranking, then when when I change gear to drive or reverse for the first few mins (after warming up to operating temp) it does this thing where I have to "build speed" if I press the throttle too hard it almost stalls so I slowly raise the throttle as it climbs speed then it takes off and maintains speed and consistent shifting no problems for the rest of that drive as long as I keep throttle position below 50% UNLESS I go full throttle at any point it rips away and accelerates amazingly BUT as soon as I let off the throttle AFTER I've already gone full throttle it starts slowing and hesitates to respond to throttle and behaves like its fuel flooding or "bogging" now, for the parts part, I've done a lot of maintenance and modifications to this vehicle and it's not 100% stock anymore, it's got a cold air intake/piping, cat deleted/ straight pipes it's got a defouler on the second 02 to give "cat like" reading and prevents 02 related CEL because I know their both working (tested) HOWEVER, the bogging issue started BEFORE I deleted the cat, I've replaced, fuel pump, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, coil packs, ignition wires, new spark plugs (gapped at .044), evap purge solenoid valve, starter motor, 02 sensors upstream and down, coolant thermostat, pcv valve, fuses, ckp/cmp sensors, throttle position sensor and yes I used a multimeter/probe wire to calibrate it within spec and adjusted the slight play in throttle body cable, I've tested throttle position response and the sensor is working perfect, I've checked timing / valve lash, adjusted lash to spec using the mechanical manual - timing is piston 4 tdc of compression stroke, adjust intake valves set to .006 and intake valves to .010 ALL within 2 groupes of adjustments, the first set of adjustments I did both intake on 3,4 then exhaust on 6, 8 then I rotated ck 360⁰ / cam 180⁰ and adjusted sets of intake on 1, 2 and exhaust on 5, 7 this is probably a confusing process to explain but the valves werent the issue, I did compression testing dry and found: cyl 1- 40 psi - 25 psi then 30 psi. Cyl 2 - 50 psi - 55 psi then 60 psi. Cyl 3 - 140 psi - 140 psi then 130 psi and finally cyl 4 - 10 psi - 15 psi then 20 psi. Because of these results i suspected worn piston rings and wished to restore compression so, I rebuilt the engine and I wrote an 8 page "builders log" of every tiny detail on how I built the g13b the specs, measurements adjustments and etc, yes the block and head are within .002 flat and new gaskets for head, intake and exhaust manifolds, every bolt was double checked for proper torque and I've already filled up oil and coolant, did a coolant air purge and ran it a few cycles, runs perfect no overheating no weird readings and initially for the first 72 km's of break in everything was perfectly running then I decided to give it 1 wot run as per the break in procedure and it went back to the "bogging" issue almost feels like a limp mode minimal but some throttle pedal response, I couldn't find any "break in oil" premade so I made my own using 3L's of SAE 30 and .5 L of hyper lube ZDDP to replicate a "break in oil" mixture, no clanks, bangs metal grinding or any sort of sounds indicating incorrect engine build I double checked all clearances and cleaned all connecting rod /cam cap bearings and applied assembly lube to all metal touching parts as in, cam lobes, lifter taps, cylinder walls, etc, torqued every bolt to spec, I've voltage tested the battery and it's at 11.89, checked all ground points and wire brush cleaned, (just ruling out variables) at this point I'm starting to think perhaps my spark plug gap is too far? Causing a rich condition? Maybe even a faulty fpr? Or vacuum leak? My idle at start up is roughly 1,500 rpm then simmers down to about 700-750 and holds, but the issue is when I step on throttle it feels like too much fuel and wants to stall like a fuel flood, hesitates to build speed / engine power and my whole goal for this g13b is to increase the power from the stock weezly 90hp to a decent 120-200 ish hpw and I'm trying to achieve that by increasing airflow / fuel for more combustion/power and free flowing exhaust for efficient airflow in and out of the engine and no I do not have an afr guage I do have a wideband 02 but the ecm wont read it so I currently have 2 narrowband 02's in right now and after everything I've done it starts up first time every time no problems and runs no belt chirps/squeal, perfect idle, no overheating perfect regulated temps, no misfires it just feels like the afr needs to be adjusted according to the mods I made with intake and exhaust flow I'm planning on starting with adjusting spark gap from .044 to .040 or .039 in Hope's itll fix the combustion from what seems like rich to a stoich ish but figured, you know what I could use another tech/mechanics advice/experience or even a tuner? I dont have access to a dyno so im uh "street tuning" and I've heard all the shit already im not "LS swapping" I'm not getting rid of the g13b in fact I plan on buying more new g13b's and I fully intend to take this g13b series to its max potential I understand the material it's made of limits its capabilitie and I realize it wont ever be making 400+ hpw like I stated previously, I only want a solid consistent range between 120-200 hpw HOPEFULLY naturally aspirated but if I have to turbo in order to reach that by all means I'll do so I'm just looking for good tuner knowledge, what did other guys do to fix the "rich conditions" with their project cars ? And etc, I'm a very determined and committed hobbyist and I'm hoping others like me will have some awesome advice to try! All positive advice will be greatly appreciated!


D1 - 7 point lugs all 4 wheels, aw2 tires
Aftermarket momo steering wheel, momo ebrake, momo "T-plane" shift stick, 8" powered sub
8" powered sub, 2 front speakers and 2 rear
Blue neon under front dash both seats, and back both seats
Cat delete, exhaust header, downstream o2 defouler, evil energy exhaust, both upstream and downstream o2's are narrowband no wideband or afr installed.


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