I'd like to add one other oddity about Suzuki rear shoes. BOTH shoes are the same length and size! Yep, interchangeable. Typically we find that the front (or leading edge) shoe material is shorter in length. Not the GV of this era!
The new rotors are fine! I've got maybe 500 miles on them and the cross-hatch / random ground finish has diminished to a shiny smooth surface. The brakes function as they should with straight stops and no noise. I also coupled them with a set of premium Monroe pads. Brake dust is significantly reduced due to the better quality pads over what I removed, I've noticed. Pedal effort is unchanged and I'll hopefully never need to experience the benefits of the drilled and slotted enhanced fade characteristics or reduced stopping distances, in this daily driver. Monroe Brake Pads
The new rotors did not come with the drilled and tapped "jacking" bolt holes (for removal). That concerned me at first, but the inner mounting diameter of the new rotors fit a bit looser than OEM's, so that shouldn't be an issue when replacement or removal in the future.
As far as shoes go, there's no performance shoes and drums for the most part right? I'm thinking along the lines of how the stock disc and pad compares to cross-drilled/slotted and ceramic pads. There's nothing out there like that in drums and shoes. Am I correct in thinking that?
UPDATE EDIT: The initial question I posted is no longer relevant as to how to get the brake assembly back together. Using the left rear assembly for reference, I did get that part figured out. However, this did NOT correct the rattling/vibration problem. I've since jacked up one side of the car, chocked the rear tires, placed the transmission in neutral and checked for U-Joint play. The U-Joints are solid. However, there's a very loose bit of play in the rear differential. Could hitting that pothole [as mentioned below] have caused damage to the differential? It does seem logical under the circumstances and the way things are behaving. Would touching the brakes take enough pressure off the differential to cause the vibration/rattling to stop momentarily? That also seems logical to me.
INITIAL POST BEGINS HERE.....
Please forgive me for reviving a very old thread. But, my question/problem definitely relates to the rear brakes on my Chevy Tracker. (1999, 2.0, 2WD/RWD)
Tuesday evening I was making a right turn onto a side street and got a bit too far into the gutter. Unseen to me was a drain grate that is recessed deeply beneath the pavement. My right rear tire hit that like the worst pothole you've ever seen.
Immediately after, I felt some vibration...very light. My first impression was that the balance weights had been knocked off the rim. (In fact, there is a location where one had been at one time but is no longer there. However, I just bought brand new tires about 3 weeks ago and this could be from the prior balancing.)
Anyway, this evening, I was driving and the vibration got much worse...and, more troubling, there started to be some metal on metal rattling/grinding like noise. Both the noise and the vibration would stop when I pressed on the brake pedal. So, that led me to believe that something had gotten knocked loose inside the right rear drum.
I've since pulled the drum and did a visual inspection and, initially saw no problem. But, when I started to put the drum back on, I was having to press the shoes together and two pieces fell out. A small spring and the adjuster [pawl] lever.
Now for the problem: My wheel hub is a 5-bolt hub and it's LARGE. This makes getting to the parts and connections pretty difficult.
I guess I'm looking for some pointers from the resident experts here as to the best way to proceed.
Also, any ideas on exactly what may have happened to have caused the rattling/vibration after hitting the pothole?
EDIT: What keeps the adjuster [pawl] lever in place on the pin? I can't find any retention clip or any other piece that would keep it from simply falling off.
LT! I saw your post when I got home at 1 A.M. but didn't have the energy to respond. Sorry!
The slop or backlash you are experiencing in the rear diff is not unusual. Once power is applied, all gearing falls into place and away you go. Between the ring and pinion, and the accompanying spider gears and internal shafting, there is a lot of potential clearance to overcome. This doesn't mean that you didn't "hurt" something in that area, but I'd first remove that one wheel, spin it on a balancer and see if that is the prob. I'm thinking a bent rim or ply separation in the tire at this point.
Since my last post, I've also jacked up the entire rear end, started up the engine and then accelerated the rear wheels to 30-35 mph where the vibration normally started 'under load'...that is, actually driving down the road.
There was no vibration present but, in this configuration, the left rear wheel had more traction than the right. So, I lowered the left wheel back to the ground in order to force the right wheel to spin. Even at 35 mph per the speedometer, there was no evidence of it being out of balance.
But, I do intend to take it into my tire shop today and have them check it out.
I've also reported this to my insurance company in hopes that my full coverage/comprehensive will cover any damage under the 'road hazard' coverage...if it applies.
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