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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-12-2014 02:37 AM
Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
not sure about the manifold gasket setup on your model. A tube of hylomar is always a good backup.

Hylomar Non-Setting Compounds
Fair enough - for most "rubber" gaskets (usually they're synthetic - EPDM or Viton most commonly, sometimes nitrile or buna-N...) I tend to keep a tube of Loctite #518 Gasket Eliminator on hand. I figure "Hylomar" is what you call RTV - Room-Temperature Vulcanizing - down there, and I've found LT518 works better to back up rubber than common RTV (I've worked on everything - from cameras to cranes...)

I cut my teeth on Small Block Chevvies, went into Big 3 V8 engines (standard and high-performance,) and went into AMC and Jeep I6/V8. I'm still getting used to this newer stuff... Plastic intake manifolds? Wha?

(Hell, I'm still trying to get my head around the fact that I just FINALLY had to take out the OEM Cu-Ir plugs - at 98kMiles! At least swapping to synthetic at 30Kmiles and changing every 25,000 wasn't much of a stretch - but I have long been using bypass filter setups, which allow heavy Diesels to run full change intervals up around 100,000miles or so...)
11-12-2014 01:07 AM
2013GV not sure about the manifold gasket setup on your model. A tube of hylomar is always a good backup.

Hylomar – Non-Setting Compounds
11-11-2014 10:46 PM
Originally Posted by 2013GV View Post
gaskets easy, its a rubber seal type, getting the cover off is the hard part, they go hard and stick like you wouldn't believe.
Yeah, I know about rubber gaskets - I've long preferred cork.

Just wanted to make sure there weren't any pitfalls in getting to the thing (removing the intake headaches, f'r instance) that I needed to know about. Manifold-to-head gaskets are probably rubber O-rings, right?

Considering I'll likely be working under "suboptimal" conditions (long story...) I'll have limited means to deal with any problems that arise - so I wanted to get out in front of them.

11-11-2014 10:07 PM
2013GV gaskets easy, its a rubber seal type, getting the cover off is the hard part, they go hard and stick like you wouldn't believe.
11-11-2014 07:11 PM

CTS P/N 2380 will work.

- I like the weight of the thing, but I favour heavier tools
- The socket is 10" long, so you don't have to use an extension (and therefore risk dropping the socket in the plug well.)
- It's readily available, and costs rather less than the Snap-On tool (or MAC, or MATCO. I got it through Amazon for a reasonable price.)

- No plug retention (not a big problem for me - since I also have an 18" haemostat clamp that comes in handy for a number of things.)
- CTA's over-the-counter availability is limited, I don't see them in stores very often.

If anyone wants an OD on the socket, I didn't lose all of my mikes recently, so I have one handy somewhere.

TANGENT: Has anyone done the valve cover gasket, and can tell me tips & tricks for the job? I finally figured out where all of the oil was going (leaking spark plug tube seals...)
10-24-2014 08:27 AM
JDKelley Bugger. So, no-one has both a plug socket that works AND a caliper or mike? I'd really hate to have to find a Snap-Off truck or play "hit-and-miss" trying to nail this down...

(At least I know it's a 5/8" hex - but getting to the plugs is just enough of a pain that I don't want to have to keep doing it to find a socket that will work...)
10-12-2014 07:09 AM
Spark Plug Wells

Hi, all -
Does anyone have any idea what the ID of the spark plug wells on the GMDAT engine is - or, if you have sockets that work, can you measure the OD of the socket with a mike or caliper?

As noted, my regular Craftsman won't work, and I don't want to just plonk down dosh without knowing what it would take to get the thing to fit down the hole (as if the Denso iridium plugs aren't already spendy enough, at $15 a pop!)

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