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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-08-2010 07:25 AM
gasjr4wd comanche79p,
With sand you want to float on top with a nice soft rubbery tire that will envelope the sand. Think of a balloon filled half way. The last thing you want is a hard - firm aggressive tread. You do not want to dig in. If you dig in with sand, you dig down. Think hard solid shopping cart wheel.
Depending on where you are it could really be an issue. I did a lot of surf fishing and the last thing you wanted was to be stuck going over the dunes blocking the way, or even stuck during low tide and have the the tide come in and claim your rig.
With a light weight sammy and the right tire, you don't even need 4wd.
06-08-2010 12:44 AM
skinny tires on my sammi

My tires are 700 15 8ply Bridgestones/Toyos
Truck tires really.
But they allow me to air down to 3-4 psi.
With the heavy sidewalls they seem fully inflated until they hit a rock/log.
They worked in the sand at Las Cruces.
We have little or no sand here where I live so it is mostly rocks/gravel hillsides and logs to stop us. Rough old washed out logging roads. Usually wet.
They laughed at me in NM until they saw how it worked for me.
My air up is a CO2 tank and curly hose.
On the hiway I run 55-60 psi
In bush, it depends on the terrain, but usually 6-8 psi.

greasy side down !!!

06-07-2010 09:36 PM
comanche79p arlo, do you run narrow tires in sand? Everything I have read mentions wide, very low pressure and not very aggressive tread.

It's sometime kind of hard to figure out what to do.

In talking with Brent at TT he mentions that with what I am planning to use it for I should consider the Old Man Emu under conversion and a transfer case 4.16 conversion and run 235 tires. I know that would be easier on the back pocket and it looks like a much simpler install.

I do appreciate everyones input and will continue to listen to what everyone has to say before I jump in.

Thanks, everyone.
06-07-2010 09:17 PM
preparing for off road

Nice clean rig...very good to start on one that has not been 'fiddled' with.
When you plan to go out in the rough, think first about traction.
My first list would include a locker in the rear. Way before the change in gears in the T/C or the diffs.
You might even find that enough change in the diff.
Be cautious in the tire department, I am partial to 'pizza cutters' on these little rigs. Still allows me to use 5th(overdrive) on the highway trip to the trail head. I keep them at the top allowable air pressure until airing down at the trail head. Raise the psi immediately after the run and before getting back on the pavement. Heat kills tires.
A Suzuki can keep up anywhere if prepared and driven wisely.
Keep the greasy side down.

06-07-2010 09:35 AM
Baratacus pretty sure whincups figures are about right on the T-case, but keep in mind that if you do not plan on doing hardcore offroading, the extreme lowgear isn't realy a requirement. I have a GRS2 T-case and it's way more than low enough for my mild offroading and trail riding. It tachs out at about 2 mph in first gear. I can get it up to 20mph in 5th with the engine wound all the way up. When I built my rig, I didn't have kids and it was intended for a more recreational truck, but it's turned into a Daily driver with a very rare trip to the desert. With it's current useage, it would have been better to do a ring and pinion swap on it. The R&P gearing keeps the load on the drivetrain from the diffs to the tires. The T-Case gearing puts your load on the ujoints and output shaft, tcase gears and components as well as the tcase mounts. You have a lot more parts taking the load of the gear reduction and whatever part is the weakest is going to be the first to go. If you plan on doing some harder wheeling off road then the T-case is the way to go, but for trail rides and daily driving, the diff gearing is the way to go.
06-06-2010 09:55 PM
mule the header and exhaust is well worth it! and unless you are sourcing from the junkyard, i agree with what whincup said - about regearing the Tcase. BUT if you are going the cheap route, then yeah, probably cheaprer to do the tracker diff gears
06-06-2010 08:11 PM
comanche79p Thanks for your reply whincup. That makes sense.
06-06-2010 07:40 PM
whincup id go lower transfer gears instead of lower diff gears, especially if its going to be used offroad. for example, the 4.16 transfer ratio's have a 12% reduction in high range which would bring it back to stock gear ratios with larger tires which is good for fuel economy around town and on the highway, and it also reduces low range by 83%, which is great for offroad.

there are other ratio's that range all the way to 6.5, off memory is a 170% reduction of low range... please feel free to correct my figures anyone, i did all those numbers off memory...
06-06-2010 01:47 PM
comanche79p Thanks, Mule.
There appears to not be an end to what you can do to one of these rigs. I don't want to half e$$ do any mods. I think I like the looks of the YJ bolt on conversion from Sky that was pointed out in an earlier post and was wanting to stay spring under until I decided something different. I am leaning toward a little body lift and the YJ spring under right now. I guess you could change from spring under to spring over later?? I plan to get on the phone tomorrow and ask a lot of questions from a couple of vendors. I want to get the foundation right to start with and go from there. It looks like after a certain amout of lift things might get a little complicated, and after a certain amount of tire size, it gets complicated and somewhat expensive. At least that is what I am reading into what is posted on some of the forums. So right now this is what I am thinking.
1. Sky YJ stock springs (under)
2. 1" body lift
3. wider offset wheels and 30" tires
4. fender flares
Later on
1. Header and 2" exhaust
2. lower geared differentials

Anyone have any comments?
06-06-2010 01:32 PM
Baratacus wow that is a super clean rig! I wish I could find a convertible hardtop for a reasonable price, they're so expensive! A header will help that carburettor breath better, should make a big difference in power.
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