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Thread: suspension up-grades? I have stock and want to fit 31"x10.5x15's Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-15-2010 12:06 AM
87samurai_dunn
spoa

i would recommend a basic spoa kit with a highsteer solution, it gets you up to clear tires and then a lot more suspension mods can be done from there, plus you can get it from 400 bucks up for everything, all you need is a welder
02-14-2010 08:53 PM
gasjr4wd chevy4x48586, you put 10.5" rubber on stock 5.5" rims??? What do you run, 3psi?
and they stay on?

thanks,
george
02-14-2010 08:32 PM
Baratacus brake dive is another one of those urban legends. the axel transitions backwards when the spings compress, but only aobut and inch. The calmini kit keeps the castor and camber angles the same as stock so there is no issues with that using the calmini kit. If you wish to eliminate the front "fangs" then you can do a shackle reverse without the tower and mount the spring to the frame. This will require you to re-weld the perch or put in a shim so that the castor angle is optimal. This gives you an insane approach angle and the benefits of a shackle reverse suspension when crawling over rocks. This type of suspension requires some knowledge and some fabrication skills to get it dialed in correctly. If you do a spring over axel lift, make sure you have a panhard bar to keep the axel centered under the vehicle. The shackle reverse doesn't require a panhard, but using a bolt on has its limitations if you plan on doing some REAL rock crawling.

please take into consideration... I posted this while intoxicated so apply the grain of salt where you feel it belongs.
02-14-2010 07:40 PM
chevy4x48586 i have the spoa kit on my zuk and i just bought new 31x 10.5 15's on the stock rims. I have plenty of clearence but they do rub when i turn all the way left or right. But if you have some aftermarket wheels with a lil offset on them you'll be fine. but as Billjohn said the gas mileage is pretty scary with stock set up, and doing just the transfer gears put's more stress on the stock driveshafts too where doing the 3rd's or R&P's will not.
02-13-2010 10:17 AM
gasjr4wd IMHO, for your mild wants, if you are only running 31"s on 8" rims don't change the diffs, just change the transfer case gears, drop in at lease one lockright locker, drop in some 3" lift springs/shocks with a drop pitman arm and hit the trails. You can do this in about two weekends all solo. It's all bolt on. This was my first setup.
Again, the only option is maybe keep the springs and just put them above the axles. This requires welding and may give more lift than needed for the 31"s.

Why are you choosing 31"s for those trails?

thanks,
george
02-13-2010 12:30 AM
grand_sea to answer the ?'s I live in Colorado Springs and plan to hit the Mountain trails and rock crawling will be part of it but mainly just a chance to get out with one of my 3 older children(3,4 & 6yrs old) and see some of the great scenery that the trails around here have to offer. Some of the guys on Colorado four wheelers said to come here because they mainly run jeeps, and full size, so hat's off to them for bowing out when my ?'s were more up your guy's alley!!

some of the trail name I've came acrossed around here are: Chinamans Gulch, China Wall, Illinois Gultch....hope this helps you help me!

Here is a Quote from the other forum that lead me here:

"It doesn't flex very well, and those front shackle reversal "fangs" are rock anchors. They hang way low and will always be trouble for you, not to mention they F' up your caster angle and contribute to brake dive. Talk to some people in Suzuki forums before you buy that Calmini kit."

Am I right by saying whether I go with the SPOA or the 3.5" Calmini kit I will need to change the diff. gears, the 3.5 has a dropped pitman not sure on if the Rocky-road SPOA does or not, and maybe the Calmini drag arm kit if I go with the SPOA not sure if its needed with the 3.5", and will the gears in the gearbox need to be change also or will the diff's be enough? this may be a couple yr project but I want a solid plan before I start! so any and all input is and has been awesome!
02-12-2010 10:11 PM
Billjohn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baratacus View Post
urban legend.

the front towers don't hang any lower than shackles. because they are closed in front and extend above where the lower mount is for the shackle, they have the appearance of hanging down lower when they actually just extend up higher for a firmer mounting.
Unless you rock crawl...
Shackles move and can 'give' with more flexibility than the 'fangs'. Whack the fangs on a rock and you can bend them (one guess as to how I know). Otherwise, I agree with the rest. For most normal trails, the Calmini 5" will give you a decent ride. It also allows more control of the front axle than a standard SPOA (without a panhard).
02-12-2010 04:30 PM
gasjr4wd If money is that tight you will _hate_ what the 31" will do to your mileage without changing the gears.
When doing a lift for larger rubber, it's not only what will make the rubber fit sitting still with the wheels pointing straight, but going down the road with people in the back, making turns, etc. Keeping the springs under the axles will require at least a drop pitman arm. Oh, and no matter what you do, don't get cheap shocks including steering stabiliser. If you think just doing the springs You also don't say how much off road you do, and what kind. Longer brake lines?
If I had it to do over again, I would just do a flip. I started with 3" springs, added a little longer shackles, 3" body lift, added a leaf or two in the front springs (for bumper, winch and plow). But then, I moved up to 33 muds.
Once you start this, it's a 'might as well' game. Rather than keeping springs under, why not grab an old set of Jeep springs and put the axles under the springs. Much nicer ride and should be cheaper... otherwise, find the softest springs you can find. In general the least number of leaves the nicer the ride. But there are sooo many other things to consider...

thanks,
george
02-12-2010 04:00 PM
Baratacus urban legend.

the front towers don't hang any lower than shackles. because they are closed in front and extend above where the lower mount is for the shackle, they have the appearance of hanging down lower when they actually just extend up higher for a firmer mounting.


I will advise against the calmini 5" lift unless you need to clear 33's. The 5" lift uses a 3 inch wide spring and it's super stiff.

The 3.5" shackle reverse lift uses a 1.5" wide spring and the ride is much softer. It gives you more than enough clearance for 31's, even a 32 will fit under it without rubbing but it's a snug fit.
02-12-2010 02:48 PM
grand_sea so have you ever had issues with the front shackles getting hung up on the rocks? I hear that's one of the probs with the reverse shackle method?
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