MY03 Grand Vitara V6 A/T has rough idle, accel + CEL
Hi folks,
Signed up to pose a query to you all regarding my girl's 03 Grand Vitara.
Friday (1/25/07) she was driving it around and there were no issues. Sat for all of Saturday and then on Sunday (1/27/07) she got to work and informed me that the car was idling rough (she called it "shakey") and that the CEL light was on, and that it would flash during acceleration.
So after she got it home I futzed around with it a bit (could only do that as I don't have tools currently), let the car idle for about 5 minutes, checked oils, those are good.
After 5 minutes of idling in park (park and neutral do not have rough idling), I ran it through all the selections in the selector - D, R, N, 2, L - the only selections which didn't have a rough idle was P and N, and it felt to me like reverse had a more relaxed roughness to it, more like a chug-shake than the quicker shake felt in D, 2, or L. I also put the car in the different 4WD and 2WD configs and felt no difference in the idling, whether none or rough.
The car was bought in 03 used with 21k miles on the ODO. It currently now has 95.5K miles on the ODO. Other than this and some rough times with brakes when our finances were tough, the car has ran solidly and survived a couple long-distance trips with nary a hitch.
I know I need to get a code reader, but before I shell out between $50 - $100 for one, I was hoping to pick some experts' brains here and see if they could pin down any probable cause for this. My general auto knowledge is slim pickings but I learn things right away and if a cause & complete how-to solution is found, doing the work and getting the parts myself won't be a problem.
Here's to hoping it's something small and not requiring a trip to the dealer!
First of all I might suggest that it could be the fact that its just a Suzuki as I have not been pleased with my problematic GV. While I realize my situation may not be typical, I might suggest you to take to a local auto parts store to have the CEL diagnosed free of charge.
SILVER XL7 - I had her take it to three different auto parts joints here in SoCal and all of them wanted $70+ to do it - I went to Harbor Freight after work and snagged a CenTec OBD-2 CAN scanner for $40.
I would strongly recommend you to change spark plugs. They're cheap and easy to replace. See what happens. P0128 yeap that could be thermostat, but it's also not expensive. P0171 seems to me like an oxygen sensor, 'cause it reffers to Bank 1.
I'd 1st start w/replacing the plugs regardless, per Fedos. Then the coil pack for #1 cylinder. If you are comfy w/engine work, I'd swap the #1 coil pack to any other cylinder, run it, re-scan, and see if the code pops up to where you installed the suspect #1 coil pack. I'll bet that it does, then you'll KNOW to purchase a coil pack as well. They run $70-$100 a pop, so make sure that is what you need.
After that, re-set the ECU (disconnect the battery) to clear all codes. Drive it and see if the OTHER codes pop back up. They MAY not surface again, but if they do, take it from there. Your mis-firing engine could have triggered one or both of the other codes.
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
I say plugs... 95k miles is way too long for a plug change.. Second if the miss is still there after would be a coil pack *or* the connector from the coil pack to the plug. I have seen those corode up and cause a misfire too.