There is a small amount of clutch rod adjustment available at the clevis / rod threaded connection, under the dash where the linkage meets the clutch master cylinder (see pic). And if my memory serves me right, as a bonus there is a rubber pedal linkage STOP that you may be able to cut back a bit in order to allow the pedal to rest slightly higher than where it is currently. Once you make your minimum adjustment to allow no less than a 1/2" of free play (measured at pedal pad's upper most travel) that
should allow sufficient clutch disengagement when fully depressing the pedal to the mat.
Assuming that you are able to mechanically adjust / raise the pedal slightly...you'll need to adjust (back off) the clutch pedal start switch at the same time, to compensate for the higher pedal. It's push-pin should be totally depessed when the pedal is at rest (up) and not binding / hitting beyond maximum engagement. Same with the stop light or cruise control cut-out switch that are mounted the same way. This will make better sense when you look up under there to scope out what we're discussing, but you need to be a contortionist for access.

Start by removing the dash panel beneath the steering column.
My suggestion
IF your free-play is
currently more than 1/2", is to first make the normal / simple adjustment which may just bring your clutch disengagement point "in" where it will work fine without the need to modify the pedal rest height.
Just curious...have you replaced the clutch master cylinder, have any leaks (look under the dash too), need to add fluid, or need to "pump" the pedal? If you have any of
those maladies...we need to talk.