If this were a horse I could just shoot it and be done with this nightmare. I picked up my car yesterday and it runs as bad as before. They replaced the harness? a PVC valve and a rubber hose. During the inspection and diagnosis part the service manager tells me there is a major problem with the "short block" they run a compression test and it shows 160psi on cylinder #4. What any of this means if greek to me. He said "IF" Suzuki approves it under warrentee I get a new engine. However, the word is they want 10 oil change reciepts showing I did my part in maintaining the car before they would even break the engine down for a further inspection. The dealer I bought the car from went belly up 18-24 months ago no one seems to have the old service records. Occording to Suzuki the dealers don't not transmit that data to them. Besides, on at least three occassions I changed to oil myself (I'm old school). Anyway, I feel like I'm about to be let out in the cold here. I am taking to another dealer next week because I got horrible service at this last one. The service manager was a real a-hole. More on the saga later.
A compression test uses the starter to turn the engine over and measure how much cylinder pressure can be achieved in several cranking revolutions. Low numbers indicate leaking past either piston rings or valves.
Did they give the figures for the other cylinders? 160 psi isn't a necessarily low figure. It's a matter of the pressure relationship between ALL cylinders. Meaning, if one tests 160 and the REST are 180-200 or something, that one out of spec (low) cylinder has issues or possibly a testing procedure malady. But if ALL of the cylinders are pretty close in pressure across the board, I wouldn't put all my faith in that one test only. A LEAK DOWN test, once again performed to each cylinder, is the most precise, as opposed to a COMPRESSION test.
Yeah, you need a 2nd opinion.
Are you getting any codes now? If running that badly, the ECU should throw a mis-fire code in that cylinder at LEAST!
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
A compression test uses the starter to turn the engine over and measure how much cylinder pressure can be achieved in several cranking revolutions. Low numbers indicate leaking past either piston rings or valves.
Did they give the figures for the other cylinders? 160 psi isn't a necessarily low figure. It's a matter of the pressure relationship between ALL cylinders. Meaning, if one tests 160 and the REST are 180-200 or something, that one out of spec (low) cylinder has issues or possibly a testing procedure malady. But if the ALL of the cylinders are pretty close in pressure across the board, I wouldn't put all my faith in that one test only. A LEAK DOWN test, once again performed to each cylinder, is the most precise, as opposed to a COMPRESSION test.
Yeah, you need a 2nd opinion.
Are you getting any codes now? If running that badly, the ECU should throw a mis-fire code in that cylinder at LEAST!
They only wrote the results from cylender 4 on my paperwork. I don't know what the rest read. I did not get any codes when I ran my scanner but the engine light is still on and flashes under excelleration (like from a standing stop to driving speed). I supect they cleared the ECU before I picked it up. I will run a test later today.
Here's something I'm worried about. The service manager said this might be covered under the drive train warrenttee but I cannot produce the 10 oil change reciepts. If they break down the engine and try to say I did not do the proper owner matenance I'm screwed on the cost of the internal inspection. Any thoughts on how this might go?
On the oil changes...plead your case to some HOPEFULLY sympathetic / understanding ears that YOU performed the maintenace, is all I can suggest. Then cross your fingers.
MAYBE they will agree (up front) to pick up the cost if once into the "open and inspect" phase, they find no signs of a lack of oil change mainenance leading to the problem. (no dirt / debis, sludge, etc, suggesting poor maintenance)
On the other hand...IF the loss of compression is due to VALVES leaking by...oil change frequency is mostly a moot point. Top end problems (as in valve probs) are typically caused from valve lash, engine overheating, over-reving, fuel and ignition timing problems.
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
I should be OK on the oil change part. I changed mine more frequently than the recommended 6000 miles, my rule has always been 3000. I use Pensoil mostly and STP filters. Let's hope that took good care of the engine.
Great photo I was looking for hours trying to find out which oxy sensor was bank1sensor1 How did you take the photo? Any ideas on changing the driver side 1 sensor?My hand bary fits back there.The other side would be easyer.It does not have that black box with cable coming out of it,hanging off the end of the head.would you know what that is I was thinking of remoing it to get at sensor.Your photo shows it with a white spot in the middle.The connecter is really in a tight space also.
black box with cable coming out of it,hanging off the end of the head.would you know what that is I was thinking of remoing it to get at sensor.Your photo shows it with a white spot in the middle.
It's the CMP (timing) Sensor. If you mess w/it, there goes your timing. You'd have to reset it. I'm not sure how it pulls off and re-attaches either.
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How did you take the photo?
Spare engine in the shop.
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Any ideas on changing the driver side 1 sensor?
I did everything on mine from UNDER the vehicle using that style ratchet and socket I pictured.
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The connecter is really in a tight space also.
Tell me about it. One of the guys here reached in from the TOP of the engine to get to his FWIW. It may have been on the other side though.
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
This comment is to Max. Let me see if I understand looking at the back of the engine,which you have pictured, the left bank sensor 1 is on top and sensor 2 is bottom left. Right bank or side of engine in picture would be same sensor 1 on top sensor 2 bottom. Is that correct? I am in the process of changing one of the sensors and do agree about the connector issue, it is a pain. Your pictures are excellent.... Thanks
The one boxed is Bank 2, Sensor 1. Next to it on the left is Bank 1, Sensor 1. Now, directly below and after the cat converter (but not pictured) are a 2nd set, bank 1 & 2 sensors #2.
Let us know how it goes. Glad I could help.
Max
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
Got it back, but not fixed
Linear Mode
