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Old 10-22-2010, 02:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question 2007 SX4 JLX brakes & rotors

Hello,
I have a 2007 SX4 JLX AWD and I need to do the first brake pad change at 93000 kms. I'm not sure if the rotors need changing as well and I'm wondering if someone could advise how to determine if they should be changed? There is a ridge from the edge/circumference to the face but that's just from wear, the faces themselves are not too uneven - I think! The brake light came on intermittently and I determined that the reservoir was low on fluid because the pads were worn. I've added a little DOT 3 fluid and the light now stays out. I fitted my winter wheels/tyres today and looked at the pads/calipers/ rotors. It looks as if all I need is a 12mm and 14mm socket? Just the 12mm if I only replace the pads and the 14mm if I need to replace the rotors? I was thinking of using RRM pads and rotors - the price seems okay apart from the shipping cost to New Brunswick, Canada. Are these good pads and rotors? I think the OEM pads and rotors have done well so I don't want to spoil a good thing!
Thanks for any advice/help.
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi dear,
check for min thickness of your rotors and if atleast 1.5 thick remaining go for machining.
Orignal brakes always works heeps....
see u.....
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Old 10-23-2010, 07:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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If you don't yet have the SX4 Service Manual, you can download it in PDF format from the"SX4 Club".
Suzuki Technical Forum - SX4 Forums

Join up, if you haven't already done so.

New SX4 pads are 10mm thick. They should be changed when they get down to 2mm. Rotors should never need to be turned unless they are warped, due to excessive braking. Distorted rotors will show up as pulsations in your brake pedal when braking. That's one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type of things.

If your brake pads are failing pre-maturely, it may be time to review your own driving/braking methods.
I traded off my 2006 Forenza after about 65k miles without ever changing brake pads.
My 2000 Grand Vitara went 150k with the original pads.

If you have lots O money to spend, go the RRM route, but if not, buy replacement pads at your local Auto Parts store.
My local Advance Discount Auto Parts store has several great brake pads for the SX4.

Good Luck,
Shadow
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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if you're changing the rotors you'll also need a 17mm
to take off the anchor, and something to push the piston back in
(c-clamp or big channel locks)
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you very much for such a helpful reply - much appreciated. I'm downloading the manual now and I've just joined the technical forum.

I think I'll just change the front pads for now as the rear definitely have more than 2mm remaining. The rotors aren't warped. At about 50,000kms there was a vibration up through the steering wheel when braking and I consulted the dealer but they said the pads and rotors were fine and that just the pads were wearing unevenly and that it was nothing to be concerned about. The vibration has since been absent for probably 30,000kms.

I checked the pads and rotor prices with my Suzuki dealer and it would actually be cheaper to replace with RRM pads and rotors even taking into account the cost of shipping. However, Suzuki are currently offering 50% off rotors if they install them. Canadian Tire have pads that are half the cost of OEM but they would probably damage the rotors? I'm guessing the OEM pads are ceramic? In any event I'm happy with the mileage the front pads gave and if I hadn't had the "uneven wear" issue they would probably still be good for lots more kms!

Thanks!
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpylarry View Post
if you're changing the rotors you'll also need a 17mm
to take off the anchor, and something to push the piston back in
(c-clamp or big channel locks)
Thanks! From looking through the service manual I think I'll need to bleed the brakes after removing the anchor bolt if it is the same as the "brake flexible hose joint bolt"?

The rear pistons are turned clockwise to allow the caliper to fit over the new pads so I'm assuming a c-clamp won't work for the rear?

Thanks!
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:48 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You don't need to unhook the flex hose.. So not necessary to bleed..
Although always a good Idea.
For the rear you need a tool to turn and push the piston if you're changing pads.
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Old 10-23-2010, 01:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, as I've been told, the front piston pushed right back into the cylinder, but, the rear pistons SCREW in....so don't ever try to just push them back.

Cheers!
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do not push the old fluid back up the system, open the bleed screw before pushing pistons back, collect old fluid in a catch container..

Close bleed screw, Top up with fresh fluid, install new pads and press brake pedal to set brake pistons, Top fluid again.
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