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Old 07-04-2009, 07:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HELP SX4 SPORT Engine goes to 500 RPM

Hi all: I'm new at the forum, then of course, is because a problem, and I have a question for ya.

I Have a SX4 sport 2008 Standard, I brougt it used but as new, so fine so good 17000 miles

During six month everything ok, today in morning I gues the ECU goes crazy, the light of "CHECK ENGINE" still on, and the cruiser control doesn't work.
After a very quick revision I decided reset everything disconnecting the battery.

Then everything looks good again, No more "check" light... Cruise Control work again.. everybody happy BUT..

Now the engine running in neutral in the garage, (I mean the engine ON), the RPM is always in 500 RPM (almost stop). when before was in 750-800 without touch the gas pedal.

The problem is at that RPM's neither the AC activates, so when I stop in the light, for a minute, I receive hot air from outside in my face, or I need to get the gas pedal a few milimeters pressed..
BElieve me , here in Puerto Rico the AC is needed really, but also I know that something changed after the reset..

I tried also the THROTTLE RESET procedure that i somewhere in thsi forum, but I think that now is worst.

Any other trick of the SX4's that can help me?

Thanks a lot

Good forum
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The worst thing you guys can do is disconnect the battery without first pulling the codes from the ECM. If the check engine light was on there was valuable information to aid in diagnosing the problem. With any luck the light will come back on eventually.
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMIGCUE View Post
Hi all: I'm new at the forum, then of course, is because a problem, and I have a question for ya.

I Have a SX4 sport 2008 Standard, I brougt it used but as new, so fine so good 17000 miles

During six month everything ok, today in morning I gues the ECU goes crazy, the light of "CHECK ENGINE" still on, and the cruiser control doesn't work.
After a very quick revision I decided reset everything disconnecting the battery.

Then everything looks good again, No more "check" light... Cruise Control work again.. everybody happy BUT..

Now the engine running in neutral in the garage, (I mean the engine ON), the RPM is always in 500 RPM (almost stop). when before was in 750-800 without touch the gas pedal.

The problem is at that RPM's neither the AC activates, so when I stop in the light, for a minute, I receive hot air from outside in my face, or I need to get the gas pedal a few milimeters pressed..
BElieve me , here in Puerto Rico the AC is needed really, but also I know that something changed after the reset..

I tried also the THROTTLE RESET procedure that i somewhere in thsi forum, but I think that now is worst.

Any other trick of the SX4's that can help me?

Thanks a lot

Good forum
Your best bet now is to take it to the dealer.
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you guys for the answers, there is a lot of different opinions here, I'm an amateur, with knowledge but amateur, my strong part is electronics.
But I saw hundreds of times here the recommendation "Disconnect the Battery".
Surely If I havent mention that i did it, "disconnect the battery", shoud be the first answer I receive.

Anyway, the problem is solved. just wit a little of logic.
I'll post it here for help anoters (as all of you do), just in case that may be you are little resistant to go to the dealer, 'cose most of the times they dont have ANY idea of the problem, you can spent hours explaining , they will do for all the same, check with scanner, replace Sparks, cables, some "very difficult small and electronic device", charges you, and you go home with the car with the same (most of the times) "STUPID" problem, the conclusion?: Dealer mechanics NEVER HEAR YOU who is the USER.

Here we go.

I start from the premise that in a car of 2008 NOTHING serious should happen, the car is correctly driven always, the oil is new, the filters, coolant and everything I know is ok.
If this is not correct, then the companies are building strange things called cars that "some times" run properly, but the main purpose is go to the dealer every week.

FACTS
My daughter tried to drive (learning) the car that morning, so as an standard car, is difficult and the car stopped may be three times like a rodeo that morning.
Then the light appears.

So I used the method posted here to "reset the gas pedal position".
(check doesn't dissapear)
Then I disconnect the Bat.
That really was when the engine stuck in 500 RPM in idle mode.
even though the check light was no more there

After lot of tries, I start to think:

When this starts?, After my daughter drive.
What happens? well car stopped three times
What happens inside?, well.. excess of gas.. engine runs for some secons in a situation that is not supposed to happen

What happens in a normal car?.. (old)
It drowns, choke, and start to release black smoke, until normalise

what's a BLACK SMOKE?

Well, raw gasoline and carbon

In a new engine like this, where goes the carbon?..

OK Lets find it..


OK .. no more bla bla bla..
I uncover the engine, filter and everyting to check the "buterfly" or the accelerator valve (dont know the name in english)
That round flat piece that opens and close the flow.

and SURPRISE!!!..

That thing had a half millimiter of carbon layer over the edge of closure.

Because of that thing is calibrated (via the step motor) to let the small slot of air intake for the car runing in release mode +/-850 RPM, that layer of carbon limits almost a half of the air flow.

I just cleaned with a carburator cleaner in spray, and a clean rag.
Re asembled and GREAT!!

Everything is OK.

Half an hour job.

If you like the cars, and probably understand a little of the most basic engines secrets, well, the new engines are the same thing wit a lot of electronics.

(Just somebody tell me WHY an Optic throttle pedal? is that more reliable that a simple cable?)

Dealer? Ok shoud be a good Idea for other situations, but if I think in the dealer as the first, then tomorrow I shoud have a veeeery complicated monday. (trying to explain, and without car for 6-8 hours).
And for sure paying 80,90,100 bucks? for THEY TRY the solution charging me until they discover? .naaa

Thanks Again , I hope this is usefur for someone , and sorry for the bad english
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Old 07-05-2009, 10:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMIGCUE View Post
Thank you guys for the answers, there is a lot of different opinions here, I'm an amateur, with knowledge but amateur, my strong part is electronics.
But I saw hundreds of times here the recommendation "Disconnect the Battery".
Surely If I havent mention that i did it, "disconnect the battery", shoud be the first answer I receive.

Anyway, the problem is solved. just wit a little of logic.
I'll post it here for help anoters (as all of you do), just in case that may be you are little resistant to go to the dealer, 'cose most of the times they dont have ANY idea of the problem, you can spent hours explaining , they will do for all the same, check with scanner, replace Sparks, cables, some "very difficult small and electronic device", charges you, and you go home with the car with the same (most of the times) "STUPID" problem, the conclusion?: Dealer mechanics NEVER HEAR YOU who is the USER.

Here we go.

I start from the premise that in a car of 2008 NOTHING serious should happen, the car is correctly driven always, the oil is new, the filters, coolant and everything I know is ok.
If this is not correct, then the companies are building strange things called cars that "some times" run properly, but the main purpose is go to the dealer every week.

FACTS
My daughter tried to drive (learning) the car that morning, so as an standard car, is difficult and the car stopped may be three times like a rodeo that morning.
Then the light appears.

So I used the method posted here to "reset the gas pedal position".
(check doesn't dissapear)
Then I disconnect the Bat.
That really was when the engine stuck in 500 RPM in idle mode.
even though the check light was no more there

After lot of tries, I start to think:

When this starts?, After my daughter drive.
What happens? well car stopped three times
What happens inside?, well.. excess of gas.. engine runs for some secons in a situation that is not supposed to happen

What happens in a normal car?.. (old)
It drowns, choke, and start to release black smoke, until normalise

what's a BLACK SMOKE?

Well, raw gasoline and carbon

In a new engine like this, where goes the carbon?..

OK Lets find it..


OK .. no more bla bla bla..
I uncover the engine, filter and everyting to check the "buterfly" or the accelerator valve (dont know the name in english)
That round flat piece that opens and close the flow.

and SURPRISE!!!..

That thing had a half millimiter of carbon layer over the edge of closure.

Because of that thing is calibrated (via the step motor) to let the small slot of air intake for the car runing in release mode +/-850 RPM, that layer of carbon limits almost a half of the air flow.

I just cleaned with a carburator cleaner in spray, and a clean rag.
Re asembled and GREAT!!

Everything is OK.

Half an hour job.

If you like the cars, and probably understand a little of the most basic engines secrets, well, the new engines are the same thing wit a lot of electronics.

(Just somebody tell me WHY an Optic throttle pedal? is that more reliable that a simple cable?)

Dealer? Ok shoud be a good Idea for other situations, but if I think in the dealer as the first, then tomorrow I shoud have a veeeery complicated monday. (trying to explain, and without car for 6-8 hours).
And for sure paying 80,90,100 bucks? for THEY TRY the solution charging me until they discover? .naaa

Thanks Again , I hope this is usefur for someone , and sorry for the bad english
Glad you were able to solve it. In light of your further explanation, Carb Cleaner is a good solution.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your English is fine, and thank you for posting the solution to a problem that could affect any of us!
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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With only 17K miles, it should still be covered by the warranty. If your dealers provide a loaner vehicle, call ahead to drop the car off and it's pretty painless to have them worry about it.
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Old 07-11-2009, 06:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It's solved.. I prefer to let the dealer for things more complicated, where I cannot use my hands
Thnks!
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