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Old 08-26-2009, 08:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default AC stopped working---blown fuse

My AC just stopped working while driving down the road.

When I say stopped working, I mean it only blows warm air.


I checked under the hood and the 15amp fuse labeled for the AC (in the fuse box right behind the Battery) was blown. I replaced it and it blew as soon as I turned the AC on.

What would cause this? I'm thinking maybe a short, but I don't even know how to track one down.

Its a 1996 1.0L with a manual transmission
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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unplug your electric cond. fan, replace the fuse and try it again. If it works- Do NOT use your A/C untill you replace the fan motor. The A/C compressor can produce high head pressure- especially when it cannot loose BTU's.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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interesting...but I need to clarify which fan you mean.

you mean the cooling fan for the motor/radiator?

or does "cond." fan mean the fan blower for the air "cond"itioner?
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The condenser fan up front.

Check along those wire lengths for frayed / shorted breaks too.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iseestars View Post
unplug your electric cond. fan, replace the fuse and try it again. If it works- Do NOT use your A/C untill you replace the fan motor. The A/C compressor can produce high head pressure- especially when it cannot loose BTU's.


That worked!

So if I just get a new condenser fan I should be okay, right?

When testing it, I only ran the AC for about 10 seconds to make sure that it was blowing COLD air.

Any tips on replacing that fan? I'm thinking it should be pretty straight forward

Last edited by GRNDHOG; 09-10-2009 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
So if I just get a new condenser fan I should be okay, right?
Yup, but double check the connector, wiring and any ground connections first to make sure that it isn't just a bad / corroded connection that needs cleaning.

Did you spin the fan by hand? If it's hard to turn, check for the blades hitting anything. If still hard to turn, it's toasted (bearings) internally.

If it turns OK, the connections are good, then the motor is electrically shot ta' hell.
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Last edited by Max; 09-10-2009 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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my mothers 91 mazda condenser fan was not working a found out that a wire had got pinched and was grounding out on metal.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have a new fan on order from Napa. It should be here monday or tuesday of next week.

I have a question/concern about it though.

I don't know why I didn't do this before I ordered the fan, but...

today, I "hard wired" the fan directly to the battery. It worked, seemingly fine. Now the wire did get hot in the couple of seconds I ran it, but I figured that is just because the wire wasn't large enough for the current.

If the fan worked, does that mean that it is a short in the wiring somewhere, or could the fan still be shot and pulling more than the 15amps that the fuse is rated at?

I figure I'll try it with the new fan before installing it completely and if everything works, then I'll install the fan.

If it blows the fuse, could I actually just "hard wire" the fan and put a switch in my car and have the fan on while the AC is on???

Also, would I be able to unplug the fan and run the AC as long as I was driving (for example) on the interstate, and shut off the AC when stopped??
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i try to keep the wiring origanal if it means going to the junkyard to get the correct wiring.
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miami man View Post
i try to keep the wiring origanal if it means going to the junkyard to get the correct wiring.
and I understand your thoughts behind that...but I've looked over the wiring a dozen times and can't figure out where the wiring goes to/from. I'm still holding hope the fan comes today!
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