30 Amp fuse blows when cold no short when hot

[Professor]

Hi
I have bought a 1997 Suzuki Swift which had a engine fault light come on.
I had no time for the dealer to repair the Item as I had to drive the following day 800km back home.
The shop run a Code check and informed me that it was a Solenoid Valve in the Pollution Circuit. We agreed that they would mail me the Solenoid .
After an uneventful trip home ,I took the solenoid out and checked it on the Bench there was nothing wrong with it.
What I found is that the marked as " PTC Fuse" blows while the Engine is COLD and there is a direct short in the Line.
I do not have a Manual yet and I am unable to determine where the blasted PTC is or or what it is? (Google: positive temperature compensator)
Could it be a Carb Heater?
Once the Engine warms up but before the Thermostat opens (cold Rad) the short disappears. I substituted a 12V Light Bulb in Place of the Fuse to confirm the above. Cold Engine bright Light Warm Engine NO Light.
Can someone shed a Light to my Problem please?
I am also looking for a Manual somone had a Turbo Sprint Manual for my former Sprint it was a blessing.
I have bought a Haynes Manual its totally useless and I am returning it to Can Tire.
Thank you
proferssor

[Johnny Mullet]

PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater. This is a small ceramic heater underneath the throttle body that is used to evaporate fuel when the engine is cold. Heater itself should measure .5 to 3.0 ohms.

[Professor]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) heater. This is a small ceramic heater underneath the throttle body that is used to evaporate fuel when the engine is cold. Heater itself should measure .5 to 3.0 ohms.

Thank you Johnny,
I just came from the GM Dealer, he photocopied a Wiring Diagram showing everything that is connected to power that device.
I then traced it to the Bottom of the Carb as you indicated and disconnected the large round plug near the Carb.
My powersupply only handles 3 Amps so it of course it went into current Limit Mode.
I substituted a DC Motor since I had nothing else that would draw any kind of current and erased the Fault Code.
I could not get it to stay erased ,I reckon that it is looking for a certain Voltage Drop across that Heater for feedback reference to the ECM.
The next step is to get a new Heater Element which is likely quite pricey.
Meanwhile it is running and I did not bother to pull it out.
Any Idea what may short out a Heating Element?, usually it goes open Circuit
professor