I have searched and searched

cygnus58 · 06-25-2008, 07:18 PM

The 92 Metro will idle fine cold, and in gear warm, it is quite slow. ( I have tweaked set screw for average to get around) If an electrical load appears more than just brake lights (such as should be corrected by idle-up diodes) it will stall. Alternator is outputting 13.88 volts at idle. No chk engine light. Temp sensors all check in spec.
I finally found the diode pack, and they are all fine. With it unplugged, all the input voltages from defrost, brake, heater fan, etc, are present. If I check continuity from output of diode mod. brn/yel (plug) to ecu B6 brn/yel, there is none.
It seems so unlikely that such a decent size wire would break between those two points.
Any Gurus have input?

One of my two diagrams mistakingly calls it brn/wht on the input. D6

I just hate to cut, snip, and jumper the suspect wires. And it's not a pretty area to solder in.
I'm sure this would be the big demon that caused the PO to sell.

Help!

Johnny Mullet · 06-25-2008, 08:32 PM

Check all the grounds from the battery to the engine and those to the frame. These cars are known to have the worst ground wires. Make new ones with new wire and wire ends and clean the connections up real good.

Sounds like a ground issue to me.

cygnus58 · 06-26-2008, 07:22 AM

Thanks, I did notice the ground from the engine to firewall is very small and even has a plug in the middle.

cygnus58 · 07-15-2008, 07:56 PM

Still haven't mastered the idle problem BUT - We shut her down after a ride Thursday nite, and guess what? No start on Friday. Had spark, fuel, just NO pop. It threw an ECT code which was evidently erroneous. On Saturday we changed the timing belt. Now she's purring again. Guess it's sweet to have it jump time in the driveway rather than need a rollback to bring it home for the first timing job. And for the first time in my life, after the timing was set, the plugs were fouled from trying to start her. Never had plugs foul out so quickly in 35 years of driving. So I'm learning the ins and outs of this sweet little ride, and the timing belt is out of the way.. Thanks Johnny M. for your responses.....
Also, the grounds are all done under the hood - including an overkill one gauge (i believe, it was free from work and is a half inch thick) wire direct from the battery post to the spot in front of the coolant overflow bottle. It's massive.

Johnny Mullet · 07-15-2008, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cygnus58

Still haven't mastered the idle problem

These 3 cylinders do not always idle smooth. Mine shakes a little. Enough to shake the shifter some and even the doors when they are open. It's a balance issue with an engine having only 3 cylinders compared to 4 or 6 or 8.

Central PA huh? I am originally from Altoona, PA

cygnus58 · 07-21-2008, 06:49 PM

update - well after burning way more oil than it should, and timing belt, and fouling plugs, I guess the low idle may be related the overall compression....
60,75,90 pounds.
Is there any reason we can't do a ring job from above and below?
Also, I have read about two and three ring sets for the 1.0
The VIN is of no use as the engine is a 94 I believe. It would be nice to know before we dismantle and have rings, seals head gasket etc.. all ready to go
Would the number on the block be of any use?.

Zooke581 · 07-21-2008, 07:16 PM

Yes there are different ring sets. Engine numbers should help. I took the head off of my engine and the oil pan and put new rings in after a light honing. It is running fine. You might also check the valves too. I purchased a rebuilt head on e-bay shipped for $189.

cygnus58 · 07-21-2008, 08:59 PM

Thanks Eric. What were your symptoms before the ring job?
Where could I link to a cross reference on engine numbers?
The dealer told me he needed a VIN that would match engine to answer the number of rings question.
(rings thru GM aren't available now anyway, he said)
I guess I can hope that when we pull it, the engine was replaced with one of the XFI , higher MPG ones, 2 ringers even though this car is AT..

Johnny Mullet · 07-22-2008, 10:07 PM

The entire rebuild can be done with the engine in the car. Make sure you check those exhaust valves. I will bet my left nut they are burnt. I posted a guide on this thread for repairing the head..............
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...uide-pics.html

After the head is off, you can drop the pan and remove the pistons out the top. Then you will know what rings you need.

Why not get both sets of rings and return the set you don't use?

cygnus58 · 07-23-2008, 03:19 AM

I saw your post on that earlier tonite, JM.
very informative.
I wanted to have both ring sets at hand but noone near us stocks either one,
and I am certain under the conditions we are working (my job, Uncles spare time, etc..) this job will take a week or so anyway.
We will be checking valves.
Correct me if I'm wrong but, isn't a stuck OPEN egr the main reason for valve damage?
My exhaust port is clogged shut. Is this something given no emmisions here in this part of Pa. that can be left alone? If the exhaust manifold must come off for the job we will clean it out.