I have searched and searched - Page 2

Johnny Mullet · 07-23-2008, 06:48 AM

I stronglt recommend cleaning the port from the manifold, cleaning the same port where it goes through the head, and removing and cleaning the EGR valve itself. I think the main reason these carbon up so bad is the timing. They are retarded from the factory.

When you are done, set the timing about 8 degrees advanced and drive it. If it pings under load, back it off some until no more pinging. If you need help learning how to time it, just ask.

cygnus58 · 07-23-2008, 07:37 AM

thanks - we're starting on it today.....

well, three hours later and the rain hasen't stopped.
We are going to try to get it under roof to work on tomorrow.
Won't start now to drive it anywhere...seems like it jumped time again??

Since I have time to find out:

I have never torqued TTY -or- stretch bolts.
I assume that is what these head bolts are, and that they should be replaced?
I have access to a good torque wrench but not sure if it has angle gauge on it.
Any advice on torquing these bolts?
I read 54 lbs, then 90 degrees then 90 degrees, does this sound close?

Also, after repeated tries starting again today, i have come to the conclusion that the low compression is why it wouldn't start in the driveway before we put on timing belt a week ago. We learned during the belt change that the "obvious" cam timing marks were NOT the ones for TDC at that time and so it did look like it had jumped time. (there is another single, inconspicuous mark several degrees off of the "dual" markings on the cam pulley) I believe if we knew that then, we wouldn't have replaced the belt at all. (it wasn't broken) I checked timing marks today, and they are where we set them. I never mentioned that after replacing the belt it still wouldn't start without different plugs.
Now I hope to get it running to the garage we will clear out for fixing this mess. It really does sound like ONE cylinder only (#3?, 90lbs) is trying to fire.
So the new plugs I installed when we bought it lasted about 500 miles...

engine number is G10R108845, does this mean anything?
I seem to recall R meaning 1994 but can't find link..

Johnny Mullet · 07-23-2008, 08:48 PM

I re-used my head bolts and had no problem. Use a light coat of oil on them before installing and also blow out the holes so there is no coolant in them! Torque to 55 Ft LBS only starting from center and criss-cross outwards.

One more tip, when the head is off, make sure the check valve stays in the block and when placing the gasket on, please examine the hole cut-outs. Some guys are saying the Felpro head gaskets they used have too small of a hole for the oil return and had to "cut" the hole bigger, but mine was correct.

cygnus58 · 07-23-2008, 09:03 PM

I read something online today about a head gasket problem. Something about a hole being either 1/2 inch or around 1/8 inch. It had to do with crank ventiliation. It must be what your talking about. So, I want to enlarge hole if it's not already that size?

thanks again for your quick responses they are really appreciated

Kenm · 07-23-2008, 10:56 PM

You might check on a 'Crate Engine’ from Japan. You can get them on the West Coast for around $400. I have purchased 2 of them. My understanding is they have about 30,000 miles on them. The compression on both engines was perfect. I got around 150,000 miles on the first one, still running on the second. You basically treat them as ‘long block’, swapping your intake, exhaust and distributer.

Johnny Mullet · 07-24-2008, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cygnus58

I read something online today about a head gasket problem. It must be what your talking about. So, I want to enlarge hole if it's not already that size?

The guys I talked to enlarged the hole with a sharp, clean pair of snippers or diagonal cutting pliers. If you do not fix the hole, the engine may smoke at high speed decelleration. Like I said, mine was OK and you can see it in the pic I posted on my guide, so check yours first. I am assuming Felpro fixed the issue since mine was correctly cut.

cygnus58 · 07-24-2008, 08:08 PM

OK the head is off. 7 bolts out and the last one cracked a 3/8 drive socket. Damn! Drive to the local auto parts and no 14mm 1/2 inch.(we had the drive but no 14mm socket) 22 miles and then to the trusty neighbor who had a 14mm impact socket and breaker bar. 3 cracks and it's free. The son wanted to take his newly acquired Geo and raffle target tickets for it until that bolt broke free.
The EGR was plugged solid thru the head and exhaust manifold.
All three exhaust valves are burnt. The cylinder walls have zero ridge., and minimal play in the pistons.
I have to drive over and recheck for the oil check valve. Is it in the oil feed to the cam on the head side?
I have the head here and there is a small hole with what appears to be threads going to a cam bearing feed at one end. Threads? Why? haven't looked close enough maybe they're just rings.
Anyway the Uncle is saying we should assume the valves will fix it, and I'm saying yea but how could it burn a gallon of oil in 500 miles because of exhaust valves even though they alone could cause low compression readings?
As stated before, the compression was 60,75,90.
I think since it's apart it would be foolish not to change the rings.
Can we skip honing if the cylinder walls if not scarred?
Not sure about the head gasket holes thing.
I'd like to post pics.
thanks in advance-

Johnny Mullet · 07-24-2008, 10:05 PM

The check valve should be in the block on the passenger side. It's not very big at all..............

Mine did not smoke so I did not do rings on mine, but you might as well do yours because it smoked just in case. You do not want to pull the head back off again! Drop the oil pan and the caps and push the pistions out. If the cylinders look nice, you may get away with just rings, but man, get a honing stone and do it right. It only takes a few minutes on each cylinder to do it right and you can buy one almost as cheap as renting one. Don't forget to do the valve seals also. Use a small screwdriver with a bend at the end to pry them out or use duckbill needle nose pliers. Tap the new ones in with a socket.

Make sure you stagger the rings! The ring gaps should not be in line when installing. If you need help doing the head, let me know and I will step you through it. I check this forum twice a day.

cygnus58 · 07-31-2008, 06:40 PM

OK the check valve is in the block - whew!
Since my last post, have replaced, and lapped in the new exhaust valves, and existing intakes and replaced all seals.
The rings all looked good but we are replacing them since it is apart. There was zero edge on the walls, and no scoring. I'm wondering if the PO did a ring job without honing... Upon removing pistons we noticed wear on two sets of rod bearings and will also replace them and try to fix up crank journals in place. A machinist friend recommends 600 to 800 grit emery as is will not put a mirror shine on them. He says you don't want that, rather slight imperfections for oil "keepage". My problem is I am not certain if these are standard size rod bearings. The numbers on them are "3f81b". with a little circle logo containing an i and h. Searched the web and found Huate International has produced since 1992....
Can't find any detailed info on such numbers tho.
Also can I use red rtv for egr, intake (around water passages, pan gasket, and cam end/ distributor gaskets?
I did not buy a gasket set, and some of these are not available in my area it seems.

Johhny M., Altoona is only about 1 1/2 hours from me. Mifflinburg. I do remember the horseshoe curve, was there once....

Johnny Mullet · 07-31-2008, 07:45 PM

The rtv is fine for the oil pan gasket, but not the rest. I would seriously find a head gasket kit. I got mine through "Auto Value" which is also Carquest I think. The kit comes with all the essential o-rings and seals you need including valve stem seals! Did you do those or you think they are OK?