1.0l Interference Engine???

[igya]

A Gates Belt Co. rep just told me that the 1.0L 3 cyl is NOT an interference engine. However, the factory manual indicates that it IS. Anyone know for sure?

[lancekilgore]

no it's not a interference engien

[Mark3539]

Definitely not an interference head; anyone who's ever had the misfortune to break a timing belt has discovered that all they had to do was retime the engine, replace the belt and zoom off, thankful that they are not driving a Honda.

[dogsridewith]

In section on cam belt replacement, gives warning that even turning by hand will wreck things...gives pictures and description of safe arcs to turn cam and crank.

I sure hope the 1991 I'm trying to fix is NOT interference, if a broken belt is why it has no spark and no gassy smell and no start and seems to crank real fast and quiet.

[Johnny Mullet]

Originally Posted by dogsridewith

I sure hope the 1991 I'm trying to fix is NOT interference, if a broken belt is why it has no spark and no gassy smell and no start and seems to crank real fast and quiet.

It's not an interference engine.
It has no spark because the cam and distributor are not turning.
Cranks fast because there is no compression or timing.

[dogsridewith]

(Factory manual writer's last job must have been for Fiat or something...figured all engines were the same.) The manual seems pretty good in terms of photos and list items of things to do. Is it full of gross errors like this interference declartion? If it gives me an ohm range for some electrical device, are the numbers likely correct? Sorry, I've dealt with some Honda, Subaru and Toyota factory manuals that sucked.)

Any idea or experience with what a garage or dealer would charge for cam belt replacement, without complications (broken rusty bolts, etc.), for a manual shift 1991 one liter Metro with A/C?

Idler, adjuster kit costs 3X the belt. Spring and adjuster piece look OK. Cam cover seal(s) are all in place (come eith kit?). Question is idler bearing...it is smooth without play, with just the slightest ticking feel when rolled. Car is 119k miles in the rust belt.

(There is no play or roughness in water pump, so inclination is to not disturb.)

Thanks!

[Johnny Mullet]

Labor time should be no more than 4 hours and that is with a tech that never did a Suzuki engine. I did mine in two.

Replace the belt, the tensioner, and the water pump to save you future troubles.

[dogsridewith]

Cam belt replacement was straightforward and car ran like new afterwards. One problem with these belts is that they would have higher life if it was easy to take out the slack that develops after break-in. (Toyota Tercel actually gives an access port to the tensioner lock bolt...though nothing in their manuals mentions it.) So I am careful to get full tension at initial install. With this Geo, I slightly overloaded the belt by adding a little finger pressure to the tensioner spring force, locking the tensioner bolt, and turning the motor by hand a couple revolutions. Then, under spring pressure alone, with the bolt loose, the tensioner located slightly further into the belt. (to the exact position it had on initial assembly)
This is just something I did. I do not suggest anyone else do it!