1990 Metro basic, when attempting to start it, it acts immediately like it's flooded. I can pull the F/I fuse, crank it with the throttle wide open, it'll crank for about 5-6 seconds, then try to start. I can put the fuse back in and normally, this will fix it. Timing's set, idle when warm is good, no miss when running. I've replaced the injector with a rebuilt beck-arnley. I don't see any leaks. I've purchased a used TBI unit and have set the cold start valve to specs, but haven't installed it yet. The car has about 190K miles but the engine has about 80K miles. Any Ideas?
I think I've got it figured. The compression was 35, 65, 100 with the throttle wide open. Pulled the head and it's got 2 burnt exhaust valves. I'm going to do rings while the head's off.
Good news, how many miles did you say was on the metro. just asking becasues they say around 100k the head needs to be done and mine is at 100k now. are you going to have a machine shop doit or your self.
I think I've got it figured. The compression was 35, 65, 100 with the throttle wide open. Pulled the head and it's got 2 burnt exhaust valves. I'm going to do rings while the head's off.
Chances are you already know this but I'm going to throw it out there anyway........
Make sure and mark pistons. Front and which cylinder.
Be sure you do complete Valve-job & not just the 2 worst ones because even the better ones is well below manufacturer's spec on this "used" engine which is minimum Compreession of 155 (new engine 190 psi +) and only 10 psi difference between cylinders
The car has about 190K miles on it. This is the second engine in the car. I put the engine in(One of the Japanese import engines) about 5 years ago, then did rings about 3 years ago. It was my work car for 7 years, about 6 miles per day were over dirt roads, and the air filter didn't do a very effective job of filtering out the fine dust, and that ate the rings the first time. That's why I did rings the first time(and why it needs it now). I gave the Metro to a lady in our church 2 years ago, and I had noticed that it was starting to use oil again, but didn't think it would be that big of a deal...I was wrong. It's been using so much oil that there wasn't any carbon deposits on the pistons at all. I'm not sure why #1 and 2 exhaust valves are burnt but don't care. The head is at a machine shop, getting the works, I'm replacing all 3 exhaust valves too. I'll hone the cylinders and toss the rings in and check the rod bearings too. I don't expect them to be bad.
Update! Put new rings in(with hone job) and the head with a valve job. Everything seems ok, except it surges at idle after the engine goes closed loop. The surging lasts for about 30-45 seconds and gradually quits, but the idle seems high, and the idle screw doesn't seem to have any effect. When I disconnect the MAP sensor, the surging quits, but when I plug it back in, it waits about 15 seconds, then the surging starts again. If I plug the ISC, the surging quits immediately. I checked all the vacuum lines, and checked the distributer vacuum advance for leaking, and it doesn't. The timing is at 6 BTDC with the vacuum pulled and plugged. I'm thinking the MAP sensor may be bad, any ideas?
No codes in the cpu? if not I go with the Map sensor. I just checked rock auto and they want 247.00 for the map sensor and it is a non stock item. I would check the local junk yards for one.
Apparently flooding when cold
Linear Mode
