I have a 93 Sidekick JX 16V I just purchased. I have a couple issues.
While crusing at a steady speed it will start to bog. If I go ahead and give it more throttle, it will just hit and pick up and go on. I do not think it is a throttle position issue, as I payed attention to it, and depending on how bad the "bog" is or how long I let it bog down, the more thottle I have to give it to get it to pick back up.
Also, when accelerating, it kinda picks up and down as the RPM climbs. Like the power is not smooth through the RPM range under full or heavy throttle acceleration.
What all I have done;
Complete tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)
New timing belt
New O2 sensor
Cleaned Mass Air Meter
I cannot get the engine light to flash at all. The light is not on, but it wont even flash the all clear to me by jumping the terminals.
I pulled the vac line going to the fuel press. regulator, no fuel is dripping out, but not gonna say it isnt leaking a little. I have a Snap-On Solus but it does not have Suzuki in it....so for now a scanner is out.
I guess I should say, that all other times, the engine runs great, nice and smooth, idles smooth. I do belive it is running a bit rich. I did not clean the EGR, but putting a vacuum on the line at idle does make the engine run bad, so its not completly plugged up.
a real tune up but no fuel filter , sadly............
Originally Posted by Craig_c
Just figured out the bulb for the engine light is blown, swapped it out and got;
Codes 14, 15, 24, and 34. Im gonna say the 34 code is my bogging issue. My speedo doesnt work, likely causing the 24.
the engine goes to limphone on most those.
rich as hell. retarded ignition , rpm limited and red hot exh.
so whats new there, repair the broken parts?
no 14 means the ECT wires fail off, (or the ect IS totally burned open inside) pick one. instant limphome 2.
15 means the ECT shorted, so the 2 wires are bare and twisted together.
might be old stored codes, pull DOMe fuse and drive 20 miles
and see if it comes back if does < ECU NEVER LIES its a hard fail.
Codes 14 and 15....my temp gauge reads very low.
the dash gauge is just a toy ,it has nothing to do with ECU. at all.
only an IRgun pointed at the thermostat house shows TRUTH.
If I ground the wire it pegs out hot, as it should. I swapped out the sender and it still reads low. (way are you doing this. the gauge is junk)
use a real instrument when working on cars. not that dash guage.
LOOK AT THAT GAUGE IT HAS NO NUMBERS (a toy it is) really its there to say ,gee why is the needle hitting H and off scale as the steam envelops the car.
I guess I got myself a basket of worms!
no , its car that was abused, allowed to stake up failure after failure.
24 is a dead VSS no kick will ever run right with a bad VSS (cable snapped no less)
35 is a dead maf, good luck with that, see my maf page for full testing of that maf. new they are $1000 from suzuki.
the china clones are junk
and uses are hard find but best best.
if all these codes come back after a Dome fuse reset.
they are ALL real. the ECU does no lie ever about that.
they are catastrophic failure codes, all.
take the black tape off the CEL lamp and move it to the dash temp gauge. bingo your a mechanic.
in the olden days we used thermometer in the rad filler necks,etc, but not today!
you can use an IR GUN
or any good DMM with thermistor probe.
look ma, the truth and no burn fingers. like times of old.
id park, since MPG is like 15mpg
and fix the maf first. if it comes back. that part is the heart breaker. huh. I do hope you find one used and good.
i type MAF in my search box an get
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