in a 97 tracker, i am considering doing a v6 swap but curious as to what power output i can attain from building the stock motor. i plan on adding a better intake with a snorkel and doing the exhaust soon with a doug thornley header, either 2" or 2 1/4" pipe, no cat and a flowmaster 40. also want to get the torquer 260 cam.
what else can be done to this engine to get more power? i want something that can make it up hills and haul people around, but mainly built for off road. i dont really want to add a turbo because i would rather have the low end torque, but maybe a supercharger? i dont know, what can i do and how much power can i expect to gain?
For what I read, the Tracker/Sidekicks weaknesses are their biggest gains.
Is not very powerful, so you will not tear it up and is sips fuel.
Is pretty light so it does not get stuck easy.
People here talks about using a VW Diesel engine with great results.
If you want tear up a trail pretty much you need to change it all, from engine to the tires.
Also there is a guy here in the forum that placed a LS1 on a 2WD Tracker. I have seen them with 4.3 but was used the whole GM Blazer/Jimmy drivetrain. Also a Wankel engine does great but lacks of torque at the lower side of the RPMs.
The cheapest mod with what you have, is perhaps a header and snorkel.
i actually have an 01 blazer with a 4.3l v6 that i wanted to use as a swap, but i would rather build this motor just so i dont have to go through the headache of doing the swap. the v6 can do 250hp easily, im not expecting that from the 1.6l, but if i can even get over 150hp from it, then i will keep it in
95 hp from a 1.6 is quite a bit...its light and small. Any great gains will come at a big cost. Turbocharging is an option but you have to have a grasp of the simple early computers (I dont) Also blowing it up would be a high likelyhood. Cold air will give you 1 or 2 hp headers maybe 5... this motor is tweaked from the factory and any gain you get will be costly.
97cubic inches. 95 hp.
this is just about all one can expect from a N/A motor, unity.
1 hp per cube. 1 for 1.
this motor is not like 60s , stove bolt six or a v8 with a 2 barrel.
this motor is already hot rodded. see them 16valves.
look at the buttery fly plate, look like 1.6v 1970 Vw bettle carb ? no. big plate.!
this little motor can snort.
i bet you can not find a dyno anywhere with any cheap mod ,that make more power
than the error in the dyno , run to run, day to day. (NOS, Charger or turbo , excepted)
so, if you cant measure that tiny amount. why pay for the parts or the test for so little gain. ( but millions of pages ww wasted trying....)
dont get me wrong, if you race N/A at WOT , i can get you a gain but not much.
id say in a word, try a low grunt "cam".
more gunt, long intake tube. Most CAI cut power. that is right the short tube. there are the rare exceptions.
longer exh pipe with small diameter ,not much over stock ,
the higher the exhaust velocity the better the motor will scavange at valve over lap time.
open exh makes less HP and will cause reversion , and possible motor ping.
Reversion is opposite of Scavaging.
Some post here for more power
and there motor is broken or EFI bad, and think motor has low power.
have you ever driven a full tuned KICK? 2 doors, is hotter.
speed co$t$ , how much do you have to spend.?
there are no limits , if you got the bread. hint: read jeff hartmans books, proof. Amazon ,etc.
dual staged turbos can beat a Charger. (or nos assisted.)
CAI that works. $5
take the Air box (stock ) plumb it into the Cowl vent at fire wall , than over 100mph you get free boost and get to keep the long tube torque benefits.
tested on Miata's on track and works. can not be tested on a dyno for obvious reasons (lap times)
the key is understanding VE Volumetric Efficiency.
and what your motor does stock.
at what RPM.
then learn what it takes to improve VE at what ever RPM you desire. 100% is 1.6L in and 1.6L out. (or 1/4 at a time) the motor IS an air pump.
there are tricks.
did you know some track racers can tune their VE over 100% ! sounds impossible on a N/A motor
but no , they use a sonic reflection of the exh bark to actual get more flow at a tight
but pretty useless on the street. but is gooood reading....
im new to the suzuki motors but im sure someone has created a stroker kit for them that will create a little hp and possibly a valve upgrade followed by a cam then some bigger injectors wit a larger pump and a regulator itd be quite costly and from what i gather youd prolly be better off doing a swap but if wanted im sure it can be done and keep a naturally aspirated motor
Perhaps it would be easier to answer your question if you advise what exactly you want your Tracker to do (that it doesn't do already). Are your mods for off-road? More power on the road? Faster acceleration? What is it that you think needs improvement? And as Autotune asks above, is your car tuned properly? What kind of maintenance have you done and how does the car run? Heats up well, etc? I have an old clunker of a Tracker, and only 8v, so only 80hp. Yet its quite zippy (although I want it to last, so I don't abuse it.)
'91 Tracker 8V, 1.6L, 5 sp, 4wd, 2dr, conv, CAMI, horribly rusty
'97 Suzuki Vitara 8v, parts car - worth its weight in gold.....
'61 NSU Quickly - 150mpg
Most non-engineers use the word "power" in the generic sense. In other words, if they want to accelerate faster they want more power. If they want to go faster, they want more power. And I sense that you used the word in the generic sense.
However, engineers understand that engines fundamentally produce torque, a pulse of force that causes the wheels to turn. Power (commonly measured in horsepower) is an indication of how many pulses of torque are generated in a time period. When an engine is running at higher RPMs, it produces more torque pulses per minute and thus generally produces more horsepower. That is why horsepower numbers for an engine are commonly the peak horsepower at the engine's highest usable RPM.
When evaluating a vehicle's potential performance, horsepower is most useful for predicting top speed, when frequent pulses of torque from the engine are required to overcome the steadily increasing friction of moving the car through the air. Torque is most useful for predicting how rapidly a vehicle will accelerate, or how steep an incline it can climb. So, for most of us driving around town or taking some trails, torque is far more important than peak horsepower.
I offer this explanation so you'll better understand why increasing your engine's torque is more important than increasing its peak horsepower. You'll feel the torque in normal driving. You won't notice the horsepower unless you go for the Tracker land speed record.
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