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Old 05-19-2017, 07:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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My vitara has an idle problem. I know interfering with the bleed screw and timing is not recommended as it's just a mask but that still wont help me.

My rpm gauge does not work also. When cold it starts fine, idle high sounds like 1500-1800 or so. Then comes down normally. Drives well with good power for a 1.6 but after a highway drive or a drive from fully warming up. When I come to a stop it's fine in drive. When I put I in N or P the idle speed races. Excessively high I'd estimate the same 1800 rpm or so. I really need a tach gauge.

I know this may be caused by a vacuum leak possible. But I'm lost at to which hoses to test for leaks. I check fixkick but his words and way of writing maybe is a bit hard to follow.

If anyone can point out on my engine I'd be grateful. Or any other info.

Additonal info. If I just start the Engine and let it idle until hot. it does indeed warm up based on IR Them. Max temp is 202 F at the thermostat housing. won't get any hotter. So I believe that is correct operating temp or just a tad bit higher.

No CEL codes either(thx bex for helping me find that darn connector)

Correct gap plugs.

I do have old plug/dizzy wires on. Idk how old but could possibly bea few years old.

All rubber pieces from the air filter side to the throttle body are tight and uncracked.
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Last edited by Reckerr; 05-19-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Reckerr, thanks for the photo - but you should put your car's specs into your signature, so everyone knows what you're driving. The photo shows it's a 16v. Your post indicates its an auto tranny. What year, mods, which auto tranny, etc??
Basically, when you put your car in N or P, that is your real idle. Once you put it in gear, it's normal that the rpm will drop, as you're putting a load on the engine. Checking for vacuum leaks is simple - take a pliers and pinch each of your vacuum hoses, one at a time, so that you're blocking the air getting through them. With the exception of the idle speed solenoid, none of those hoses should affect your idle. If you find one where the idle drops, you have found your vacuum leak. If you just started your engine and let it idle until it gets warmed up, would you have the proper idle? And yes, it is far better to have a tach to determine this, rather than just listening.....If the idle would stay normal if you're not driving, have you checked to see if the throttle cable is sticking? (Or, if you rev up the engine, will it drop further down??)
By the way, with your IR thermometer, you should only be getting a reading of about 170F at your thermostat housing. When was the last time you checked your thermostat and cooling system?
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I put in a new thermostat with the rubber ring gasket like 6 months ago. Yes If i start the engine and just let it warm up. It will idle properly. Only after a drive will it race in P or N. I'll check if the throttle cable is sticking but its not tight. Its just fine I would say.

I do have a signature. Not sure why it isnt showing up.

but here it is.

93 4dr 4x4 Vitara- P/M, P/W, P/S, A/C, 1590cc 16 Valve Fuel Injected JDM ... work in progress..
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It doesn't have to be tight - could be kinked, as well....???
Have you ever calibrated your throttle position sensor?
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Never done a Throttle position calibration. I have a Multimeter though but I have trouble following fixkicks instructions and explanations sometimes. Ill give it another go.
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Old 05-19-2017, 02:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The instructions for the TPS are fairly simple. With the engine off, you disconnect the connector to the throttle position sensor. At the rear of the engine, you loosen the idle adjusting screw until it just makes contact with the throttle valve lever. For the 16v, you take a .020" feeler gauge and insert it in between the throttle lever and the adjusting screw so that this is the gap. Have your multimeter set to ohms, and connect your leads to the blue/white and grey/yellow wired pins on the TPS side of the connector that you disconnected. Then you loosen the screws for the TPS. Sweep the TPS all the way clockwise, and then slowly begin to sweep it back, counterclockwise, while you watch your multimeter. Just when your multimeter begins to register ohms, stop, and tighten the bolts to the TPS. The reading should be no more than 500 ohms, and less is better. Then remove your feeler gauge, and start up your engine. Let it warm up, and when it is FULLY warm, re-adjust the idle adjusting screw to the 800 rpm idle.
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Old 05-19-2017, 04:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I understood that a million times better. It's calibrated and showing 300 if I turn the tps any lower (by my hand) it registers nothing... Probably can't make the small increments. It's a small space. I have to take it for a drive and see. Will update later. Thanks very much.

First time I did it. It threw a TPS code 21 from the CEL. I readjusted it now its back to code 12. Perfect.

Thanks again. Test in order now.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:01 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yessss. Drove 20km or so. Came home. Put it in park. Sweet sound of a nice reasonable idle. Love you all.
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Old 05-20-2017, 04:52 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Glad you got it sorted....fingers crossed that it stays that way...
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Old 05-22-2017, 10:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bex View Post
The instructions for the TPS are fairly simple. With the engine off, you disconnect the connector to the throttle position sensor. At the rear of the engine, you loosen the idle adjusting screw until it just makes contact with the throttle valve lever.
Bex you refer to the bleed screw or not. Because the throttle stop screw should not be touched, it is factory set?

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