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Old 04-15-2017, 09:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine Cuts Out - Throws P0102 Code

Hi all, long time follower, first time writer. I've been poring through the forum for ideas on my issue, and haven't quite found what I need, so hoping that someone has an idea that I'm missing.

My vehicle is a 1996 (US) Sidekick Sport JLX 4WD auto trans with the 1.8L engine, 105k miles. I've had it for about 2 years, and it has worked great until this past week.

Over the winter, I had an intermittent O2 sensor code (heater circuit I think), which is fairly typical with the winter gasoline additives here in Utah. While on the freeway a few days ago, the engine shut off suddenly, and I was coasting, after a second or two, the engine came back. This sudden off/on sequence has continued since I limped my way home. At idle, the engine dies but starts right back up. Most of the time the engine runs fine once it starts back up, but will occasionally bog down and sputter.

There were 2 codes: P0134 (no O2 activity) and P0102 (MAF low input). I replaced the O2, having read that the oxy could be triggering the MAF issue. I've reset codes, disconnected the battery, etc., but the MAF code lingers.

Here's what I've done:

I changed the fuel filter and valve cover gasket for other reasons.
About a year ago I replaced the Cam Angle Sensor due to mega oil leaks.
A couple months ago I serviced the EGR valve, cleaning it out and the tb port.
I back-probed the MAF as follows:
-VM to ground wire on MAF and + battery terminal. Voltage was consistent at 14v while running, and 12v when the engine cut out. Continuity to the - battery terminal as well as the ground lug on the back of the manifold (E116?)
-Power to MAF is 12v with the VM on - terminal, ground lug, or ground wire on MAF itself.
-Signal from MAF is within range (I don't remember specific V right now), and varies with airflow increase

On my scanner, the MAF gr/se is at about 3 at idle, and works up to 10 or so with 2,500 rpm.

MAF seems to be operating correctly...

TPS is calibrated to 0.5v at idle, and is linear with throttle position.

I back-probed the ground lead on the Cam Angle Sensor and that ground is consistent and isn't cutting out.

I've replaced the air filter, made sure the tb is clear and clean, used MAF spray (carefully) in the tb. But again, the MAF readouts seem to be correct.

With the engine running, I can unplug the MAF connector with no change to the engine, no idle drop or anything. If I unplug the tps, egr, or iac the idle drops and struggles a bit, but recovers when I plug back in. The only time I can manually get the engine to cut off like it does is when I unplug the Cam Angle Sensor.

I've recorded data and looked at freeze frame data on my scanner. The MAF gr/se readout is functioning, as stated above. The upstream O2 sensor I replaced reads widely varying voltage, from just above 0 up to 0.98. I have only read data while idling between engine shut offs, but the st trim is right around 0 when it's idling smoothly, with lt trim at -14.7.

Other bits of evidence:
My plugs are black and fouled rich, as is the exhaust (likely related to the bad O2 sensor I just changed).
Dumb thing leaks oil.
I want to sell it.
I have done about all I have read about in this forum beside changing the MAF itself, but I don't think it's the MAF.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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With the O2 switching as reported, there is no issue here..

Quote:
but the st trim is right around 0 when it's idling smoothly, with lt trim at -14.7.
But this indicates a rich condition, confirmed by physical evidence of sooted plugs.

What are the FT readings at 1000 and 2000rpm, hold for FT to settle..

In the mean time check for fuel in the Vacuum hose to FP regulator..

.. Philip
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I let it get up to temperature, and the lt trim at 2,000 rpm would stay around -3.4, at 1,000 rpm about -2.2. It would be cutting out in-between, and this is idling, not driving. No fuel in the vacuum hose of pressure regulator, and seems to have good vacuum (finger test). Thanks for the read.
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Old 04-15-2017, 06:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Check that you have no illegal air between MAF and Throttle body (split/holein snorkle)..

... Philip
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks good as far as I can tell. The o-ring has a positive feel as it enters/exits the tb. Really confusing. I'm trying to understand what could be causing the engine to shut off completely, then come back (if I'm driving and coasting after shutoff). Would/could a faulty MAF send a kill signal and rescind a second later?
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Testing the wiring to the MAF is in this thread:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...osing-maf.html
However, if the MAF was dead, your engine should just go into 'failsafe' - no power, etc., but shouldn't die....
Presumably when your car dies, it is something that you cannot 'save' by feathering the throttle? If so, this would indicate an electrical issue, loss of spark, loss of ECU seeing spark, etc....???
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yep, those are the voltage readouts on the MAF signal that I get, as well as bettery voltage and ground (<0.5v). I can save by feathering if I have enough speed. If I'm idling or at low speed, the motor is just off, then I can start it right back up. If I'm driving above 10 mph or so, there's enough rpm when it dies to come back as I'm feathering in a panic. It's like it passes out and regains consciousness pretty quick. Is there any other wiring I should be checking?
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I may be wrong - and hopefully someone will correct me if I am - but you basically need 3 things for the engine to run - spark (electricity), air and fuel. The fact that you can save the stall by feathering the throttle would indicate that your problem is not with spark - or frankly, any of the electrical connections, IMHO. Feathering the gas pedal doesn't reconnect electrical connections or assist the spark in any way. But it does, obviously, add fuel and air to combustion. So I would tend to think that this is where your problem lies. The MAF, for example, has a filter on it - have you cleaned it? You are getting the P0102, which indicates low AIR flow. The MAF can be faulty, you can have air leaks, a dirty MAF or MAF filter, even a clogged air filter, etc. You say you've already replaced the air filter, and cleaned the MAF. What about the MAF filter, and have you checked for vacuum leaks? Just curious, what is your warm idle???
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:29 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok ok let me rephrase, it'll save only because the engine is still rotating due to speed. Gas pedal input does nothing until the system decides it'll it's alive again and is taking orders. It's the same as if the ignition were turned off. Help me out with the MAF filter... Is this the mesh screen at the throttle body held in place by a c-clip? I have cleaned that, but that's all that's between the air filter and the MAF. Warm idle is 825 as read on the scan tool.
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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You are getting good direction from BEX

Since you have a scanner, why dont you post the Freeze Frame Data related to the code...

If you have deleted the codes lately, post the monitor condition.

Keep in mind you may have to resort to more technical testing..

... Philip
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