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Old 04-16-2017, 02:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Question: Can I check the fan motor in front of the condenser without removing it?
Situation: It will not run with 12 volts applied through the condenser relay but will run when I connect direct to 12 volts.
There is 12 volts coming from the relay-------Relay checks out good.
Can I disconnect the relay and check the wire going to the motor and Ground with an ohm meter? If so what resistance should I read?
Thanks Marvin
PS, Would the THERMISTER have anything to do with the motor operation?
EDIT to add ohms-----my readings were as follows:
200K=0 ohms
20K= .01 ohms
2K= 2 ohms
200= 2.4 ohms
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I have a USA 1995 Geo Tracker, 1.6 L with 8V, TBI, 5 speed manual, 2 Door, 2 wheel drive.

Last edited by GA_Boy; 04-16-2017 at 02:26 PM. Reason: add chart
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Old 04-17-2017, 12:41 PM   #22 (permalink)
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What colors are the wires on the fan relay? On a '96, they are;
Pin 1 Yellow: Hot when the high/low switch is engaged, also runs to the clutch relay. Do you have 12v with the key on?
Pin 2 Red: Hot at all times, 12v here?
Pin 3 Blue/Red: To the AC amplifier, pins to ground when conditions are right, energizing the coil in the relay.
Pin 4 Blue/Black: to the fan itself.
Run a jumper between 2 (or the battery) and 4 in the socket and the fan should come on.
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1996 Geo Tracker - 4WD - 5-speed - 16v - CA (Tier 1) emissions
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Old 04-17-2017, 12:59 PM   #23 (permalink)
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On another note; I vacuumed my system down and it held. Filled it up w/600g of r134 and as soon as the pressure came up, the fan and clutch kicked on. I have cold air. However, I also have what sounds like a supercharger under the hood when the clutch is engaged. So I'm going to replace all the hard parts; comp, cond, rec/drier, evap and exp. valve. I have to replace the heater core too, so might as well do it all at once.
Evap may not be necessary, but since I have to remove the case for the valve and the evap's only something like $60, I'll do it for piece of mind. While the system works, I have no idea if the noise is being caused by something as simple as the clutch, or internal to the comp, sending crap all through the system. I also have no idea how long the system had that loose high pressure line. So there's probably all kind of dust and grit in there.
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Old 04-17-2017, 08:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Jeckler, I have Jumped the relay as you suggested and the fan runs. I also have 12 volts to the fan through the relay but the fan won't run. Someone said the fan may require more current than the relay will provide. I don't know about that. Today I checked for leaks with my UV light and have no leaks.
With the engine cold the A/C works fine but no condenser motor, then when the engine gets to operating temperature the compressor cuts off. Then I ran water over the radiator and condenser and the compressor clutch kicked in and the system provided cold air.
Temporarily, I'm considering connecting the condenser relay to trigger a new relay and let that relay provide 12volt to the condenser. Larger wire and straight from the battery. This will not be permanent, just to trouble shoot the fan motor because if I bypass the relay with a jumper the motor runs.
I'm open to any and all suggestions-----------ugh, no, I don't have any dynamite.
Marvin
PS, I went to the salvage upullit today and there is another Tracker there. 1997 Automatic 2wh. drive along with the 2001.
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Last edited by GA_Boy; 04-17-2017 at 08:27 PM. Reason: ADD PS
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Old 04-18-2017, 01:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I think I have it narrowed down. When i first start up the AC now works fine it seems except the condensor fan doesn't run. The compressor clutch stops when the engine is warm. I discovered there is an AC temperature sensor on the engine block. There are 3-4 but I don't know which is which.
SEE Picture.
#1=2 wire Red blu and yel blu
#2=1 wire Yel blu
#3=2 wire Red yel and yel blu
#4=2wire Grn red and blu
Can you tell me what they are?

Thanks, Marvin
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Old 04-18-2017, 02:05 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Hope I have this right

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Old 04-20-2017, 04:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Darrell, I really appreciate the picture. It solved my problem--I think.
I vacuumed down and filled with 22 oz Freon and turned on AC. Worked fine until the engine reached operation temperature and then the compressor clutch disengaged.
I then ran cold water over the AC Cutoff switch and the clutch worked fine.
Tomorrow I will replace the switch and that maybe will solve my problem.
Thanks to everyone that contributed.
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