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Old 02-24-2013, 03:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canyncarvr View Post
Certainly a big 'Thanks!' to XXX and all the other nicks he's been.
LOL. Yeah, Jerry's had a few handles.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Make 10000 post and your nick will crater too....something to shoot for
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxx View Post
i speak far better (vastly) but typing with bad hands is hard....
x2 needles (most times they are AOK !! even on abused tranny oK)
if it whines in neutral
remove the clutch cable from end bell lever.
feel that lever on bell, lots of normal play? (stoke it F/R feel the T/O bearing hit PP?)
Throw out, hit pressure plate fingers.
yes, tie it back (just incase the spring is bell is bad)
if the whine ends now, it not the tranny , (in neutral, )
if it still whines the cluster bearings are gone. so were mine.
There was no intention of picking a nit about your typing..not in the least. Just saying I don't always follow, that my understanding is sometimes less than good.

As for the rest of your post......

Did that. I can indeed 'feel' the TO hit the PP. I can hear it, too. It does NOT whine when it hits. Sure, I CAN hear it spin, it's got I don't know how many thousands of miles on it, but, it is not the cause of the whine.

Good thing to check, though.


Re:
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Originally Posted by loosenut
There is one bolt under the trans shift case ontop of the, and spanning the trans and tcase.
I read on XXX's rebuild page about the 'hidden' bolt that is UNDER the top cover where the transmission shifter bolts on. There is a SECOND 'hidden' bolt between the transmission and TC? Or, you are referring to the ONE under the 5-sp shifter?

There is a local outfit called 'Trail Tough' that does nothing but Trackers, Kicks, and Samurais. On XXX's rebuild page, I took note that his parts list included an input shaft. I wondered about that.

Turns out (maybe everyone knows it but me..but I didn't) that this failure is common on this transmission. Brent (Trail Tough) said (if I followed him correctly) that the pilot bushing wears out, the input shaft wobbles, and THAT is what takes out the bearing..what makes the whine.

AND..replacing the bearings in the trans isn't going to fix it, 'cuz the INPUT SHAFT is, at that point, still BAD. You can replace every bearing, syncro, and known weak plastic bit in the transmission, and if you don't put in a NEW input shaft, you have accomplished exactly NOTHING.

He (Brent) said that is why he does NOT deal in 'used' transmissions. He will sell a rebuilt trans..but not a used one.

Makes perfect sense to me, and it's the sort of thing that is CRUCIAL to know. Maybe I would notice that the input shaft was damaged, maybe not. KNOWING that it MUST be replaced, that it is the REASON for the bearing failure in the first place is a 'must know' thing.

I'm probably headed toward a replacement using a rebuild. I've done my own wrenching for over 40 years..never a thing I didn't fix. I might (like on my dirtbike) have to give it a go-over from having missed something, but I have always gotten the job done.

Tackling this 5-speed I don't think is something I want to get into.

Thanks for everyone's input. I appreciate it.
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Great info canyncarvr. I see input shafts aren't too expensive. $56.

Geo Tracker, Suzuki Sidekick, Input Shaft [CT-456670A] - $55.99 : Automatic, Standard Transmission and Transfer Case Rebuild Kits, Cobra Transmission Parts 1-800-293-1848, Cobra Transmission
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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the front bearing is bad in box.
or the 2 clusters bearings,
3 spin , in neutral. (pilot front bearing not)

in 4th gear the main shaft locks end to end there really is no 4th gear at all:
that is why its quieter in 4 due to the end to end lock 1:1:

when you pull the tranny most bad stuff is obvious
input shafts , the front end on many are totally wrecked, do to 5 previus
pilot bearing seizerrs
or the idiot PO running box dry
and many gears carb blue. (bad) blue = annealed and will burn up fast, next. cacaded failures will be next,
if any gear turns blue it and its mating gear need to be replaced. (match gears if you can)
on mine the input gear and front cluster gear were blue,
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX
the front bearing is bad in box.
or the 2 clusters bearings,
3 spin , in neutral. (pilot front bearing not)

in 4th gear the main shaft locks end to end there really is no 4th gear at all:
that is why its quieter in 4 due to the end to end lock 1:1:
Yep. All true and understood. The '4th gear running quiet' part is why I figured the input shaft bearing was bad. I did NOT know that the input shaft itself being bad was likely the start of it all

I sure would appreciate this. The 'hidden' bolt that is under the transmission shifter assembly: Removal of that bolt is NOT required to remove the transfer case, correct? It IS required to remove the 'between' case..called the 'extension case', correct?

Thanks a ton.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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correct. that bolt is far forward.
the tranny xfr case drop as one real easy..
the xfr case must be drained. 1st.

most high mileage trannys when pulled the top front bearing is bad, the pilot shaft jogs left and right
it gets big time torture with clutch disc, hanging on it.
it might only need that one bearing. (if always full OF GL4 , it bet that is true)
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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What is the weight of the whole shebang: 5-speed, extension case, and transfer case?

It's bugging me just thinking of going the rebuilt route. For one thing, I've only extremely rarely had any decent luck having anyone work on anything I own. It might have happened once..but I'd have to think about it. From having the heads raise off the block by the pistons in a V8 I'd just paid to have machined, balanced, and blueprinted to having a fuseable link in a wiring harness replaced with a hunk of wire (that later burnt up the car), I've had simply 'bad' experiences all 'round.

I REALLY want to tear the thing apart!

Then again, just looking at all the pins and springs in the shifter assy makes my head hurt.



I'll take a Hurst Comp+ any time!!

The pistons work like they should now!

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