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Old 02-22-2013, 06:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I still need to read his stuff will get on that this weekend.

What is air valves on startup ? clarify that please ? I draw a 100% blank on reading that.

I will check fuel pressure and engine compression soon.

I still have to do a full NCMR to it will likely do that in spring. (jan-mar is REALLY bad for our family business no money for anything only got the tracker by letting go of the thing so I got the tracker for $7 out of pocket (sold a gadget for $125 which almost covered tags registration etc.. and the $100 I got off on the price paid for the alternator)
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:53 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Compression test should be numero uno, to let you confirm the engine timing - timing can affect everything else, so unless you know timing is good, you may end up diagnosing/repairing things that are ok.
When you car first starts from cold, your car should rev to about 2000 rpm or so, and withing 5-10 seconds, you should hear a very definite drop of about 500 rpm as the throttle opener at the rear of the throttle body closes. Then the car is idling at about 1500 and this is governed by the idle air valve on the passenger side of the throttle body, as well as the idle speed solenoid. The idle air valve is a wax pellet valve that slowly closes as the car warms up. If either the idle air valve or dashpot are not open when you are starting the car, the car will be harder to start. You can try to depress the gas pedal about 10% down when you are first starting - if this makes the car easier to start, then it is because the engine needs extra air. You should advise exactly what your car does, from cold start until it is warmed up.
That being said, of course battery and cable condition and connections play an important part too. As well as timing....
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:07 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I have never actually started the car and let it idle. I let it run for a few seconds and GO so I don't waste gas. I take it easy till its warm but I don't idle so this is a first :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogJY4jYFRfE
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:13 AM   #24 (permalink)
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BTW your qr code is NUTS man get a tiny url for it and QR that instead :-)

ie like this

Project: Tetanus (warning: picture heavy thread) - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site

as for why tire on the roof (missed that) because I want my bike rack on the back and I hate rear door mounted tires. pain in the butt most of the time :-)
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:39 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
BTW your qr code is NUTS man get a tiny url for it and QR that instead :-)

ie like this

Project: Tetanus (warning: picture heavy thread) - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site

as for why tire on the roof (missed that) because I want my bike rack on the back and I hate rear door mounted tires. pain in the butt most of the time :-)
Anyone ever tell you that you whine too much?
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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g10 valves
running leaner than Stoich, burns valves and with the classic G10 dead EGR more burned valves( EGR cools all 3 valves and lower pumping looses, raising MPG a tad)


tail gating is foolish. (but saint peter?, i was saving 1/4mpg,, peter goes silent.)
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:35 PM   #27 (permalink)
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tailgaiting a semi is not even remotely dangerous. first I am 3-5+ car lengths back and there is absolutely nothing even an empty semi can do to "outbrake" a metro even if it had busted brakes.

in fact its SAFER since if anything get in my way the semi will "eliminate" it first :-)

I am not talking 20ft off the bumper. while technically that is doable your reaction time becomes the issue more than your braking capacity. Plus the aero gain difference between 20ft and 50ft or even 75ft feet are simply miniscule at best.

even 100ft back you will experience quite a wonderful gain in fuel economy. its how I get 65mpg doing 75mph :-) so while I am not technically gaining any mpg at all I am gaining 30mph!! without losing any MPG (I typically drive 45-50mph)

I just squawk the truck ahead and let him know I am going to slip into his suck zone :-)

as for the QR code it just HUGE!! one of the magical attributes of QR codes is they are SHAPE driven not DETAIL drivel. so even a crappy blurry no macro lens camera can "read" them. but once you make them that complex they lose their shape advantage and become "detail" driven.

just a thought :-)

I only got 28mpg this tank but I had to idle for well over an hour charging a battery so that really hurt the fuel economy. I was also teaching a friend how to drive a stick which ate up its share of fuel as well :-)

I expect to do much better this tank. I FINALLY got a hitch. its on its way to me from ebay. used $50 shipped. nice.

does that "guard bar" protecting the fuel tank unbolt (have not gone underneath to look yet) ?? the hitch "appears" from the images to want to bolt right where it is. then again there was no real "scale" in the image so it might be as wide as the frame itself. not sure.

IS there a plug and play wiring hardness available for the 89 tracker? I hate splicing kits they never work right and I always have to break out the soldering iron :-) I managed to snag a plug and play for my Minivan and it was such bliss to install.

ahh yes the ever present coking of the EGR in the G10's its SOP for me every 6 months I pull the EGR and goto town on it :-)

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Old 02-25-2013, 04:25 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Yes the fuel tank protector unbolts, and your hitch should bolt right in. Presumably you are talking about 'plug n play' for trailer lighting, etc.? There is normally a trailer harness connector behind the left hand rear wheel well (behind the left hand tail light).
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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wait you mean these COME with trailer wiring already in place? SWEET I hope its their on mine!
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:40 PM   #30 (permalink)
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ahhh I love it I wish I could have found a 2dr hard top that clean to start my project with!
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