you replaced the alt before or after 1st post. ???????? i dont under stand your last post at all, (before, after and now, what are your symptoms now)?
and what is the tacho deal, the tacho has 3 wires, (power shared with all gauges, ground shared with all guages, and spark signal, if tacho dies, the ecu CUTS FUEL.)
If the battery drops below 10v the ECU goes dead, and spark ends, and tacho ends.... use a voltmeter. , check the cig lighter. its so easy there, and very much at
dash voltage.... super easy great voltage test there.
is the battery still discharging?
is car still stalling.
ill assume its all bad, with this post below.
can i presume you own a $15 DMM? and can volts.
when it messes up the battery reads what. the cigarette light socket reads what?
You have total power loss. the radio is a simple 2 wire connection. (for display logic to wake up)
ground (it has 3) and power, it will come up, and look alive.
the radio fuse must have 12v on both sides, key on, if only 1 side is hot, the fuse is blown, if dead both sides,
your main fuse box is dead on the fender. or dead to key switch power input.
same with head lamps fuses, (fix HL first) these are HOT at all times , take no key, report anytime they fail, its a big issue.
same with IGCOIL fuse. must be hot , keyon. both sides of the fuse, (dmm checks using VOlts scale)
here are some drawings, you can trace power easy , just with his one PDF. its on my schematic page and does both 8v and 16v, see?
lets do 2 tests now.
what is the battery voltage, during the bad events, ?
what is the voltage at the terminals on the fender fuse box. All terms must be hot all the time. do not short terminals to ground. by accident, lots of power here.
see drawing pg0, see the main power? fuse bank?
see the fuse box top right?
do your head lights work, Y/N? , if no , fix that first. its the most easy to fix.
the white-yellow feed, see that? got 12v there?
then check the white-green wire, at the big fuse box that runs the car. got 12v? here
if all things work, cept battery drains, then fix the alternator.
the tacho is related !, i told you that charge lamp must work , the PDF shows you why, ill review it now.
it uses 12vdc power to work, the whole bank runs off one power wire, if one has power, they all do , see why?
and gets that power from pg 7 on same PDF (or 6 is 8v. what is your valve count, i dont know) 94 trackers in calif market were 16v, but i cant tell you, you tell me...
see the power feed call IG-coil it runs 7 idiot lamps (charge is 1) and 3 meters
if that power feed dies, car will not start.
and the Alt dies
and so does all 7 lamps. and 3 gauges.
see that page 7>?
the radio gets power from the radio cig fuse, which in turns comes from the key ignition
If the dash lights up, (I dont mean park lamps, in dash ) i mean the idiot lamps ,what do they do?
brake (hand brake on)
CHARGE, key on , not running.
Seat belt off body warning.
4wd if in 4wd
oil pressure, key on, not running. must glow.
Fuel guage deflects some. must.
Temp might move a tiny bit. (no mater this,its cold)
Techo moves upscale cranking, only or running. never stalled.
if these function work, then
the power to dash is good.
does this help you?
Dead charging system.
The alternator will work if 4 the wires are good.
from the big terminal at alt to battery via the 60amp fender fuse.
the alternator 2 wires on the rear (rear alt plug most both be 12v)
disconnected from the alt, and measured at the connector, key on. 12v.
the first pin is the sense wire, the other is the charge lamp if either read bad, the wiring
is faulty in the key/switch, or lamp is burned out in the dash charge lamp. (the lamp is the alt bootup excitation source, no excition the alt is born dead)<< many brands.
btw , i forgot to say ,some alts with bad charge lamps (burn open) can self start 1/2 the time.... this is all on my charge pages.. ever word.... and why and the schematics proving the why. This (some alts have their own boot circuit, no telling what any car might have, with Nippon alts and clones, to the mx)
Bottom line, the lamp must be GOOD. is it?
the charge lamp must GLOW key on, or it's the wire to the alt is bad, or the alt is bad.
or the alt is not grounded.
one guy here, long ago failed to see the big lug on the back of the alternator (the main charging wire) the lug was totally shot.
when looking at wires, make sure they are not burned, shot, rusted to nothing in ends, etc, tug the lugs, do they fall off ,because only plastic is holding it one, melted?
the alt has only 5 connections
1: sense (to key on)
2: idiot to power.
3: charge wire, big wire.
4: ground (mounts)
5: must spin faster that the crank, way faster. 1.5 to 1.8 times faster, not sure exact. belt must not be slipping thats it.
it must never allow the battery running to drop below 13.2 volts at any time (float value) can go to near 15v. RUNNING. (800 rpm engine min.)
be vary careful not to ground any node (terminals ) test the charge system or great danger can occure.
if disconnection the battery ,
take off the NEG lug first and put back Last, never any other way.
and do not jumper boost any car backwards.